Thursday, January 30, 2014

Lucky Dumplings for the Lunar New Year

The Lunar New Year is one of the most significant of Asian holidays and is a time for feasting, reflection and renewal. Traditionally celebrated over 15 days, the holiday starts with the first lunar new moon of the year and ends on the full moon. Chinese New Year 4712, which begins tomorrow, will be the Year of the Horse.  The New Year's Eve family dinner represents a night of unity, reunion and harmony. Popular lucky dishes include anything whole (complete) or long (longevity). Traditional favorites include whole chicken, duck or fish served with long noodles, long leafy greens, and long string beans. Fresh and candied fruit, especially kumquats and oranges, represent good health, happiness, prosperity and blessings.

Chinese dumplings called jiaozi (“gee-OW zeh”) represent wealth because they are shaped like ancient silver and gold ingots which were used as currency during the Ming Dynasty. Interestingly, the first bank note of China was called "Jiaozi." I adore these hearty little bundles of joy filled with cabbage (prosperity and luck), pork (strength and wealth), and green onions (long life and eternity). Until this week, I have enjoyed them at Chinese restaurants. Amazingly, they are actually quite easy (and fun) to make at home. For those not ready to fully embrace the “from scratch” concept, pre-made dumpling wrapper are available in most Asian and ethnic markets.

Dumpling Wrappers:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 to 3/4 cups boiling water

In a mixing bowl, combine flour and salt and then slowly add hot water to flour in 1/4 cup increments. Mix with chopsticks or a fork until a ball is formed and the dough is not too hot to handle.

On a floured surface, knead dough until it becomes a tight ball. This is harder than you think it will be. Keep folding and kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Place the dough back in bowl and cover with a damp cloth and allow to rest for about an 1 hour. Resting the dough is important because otherwise the dough is difficult to roll out and shape.

Working on a floured surface with floured hands, roll out dough to form a long 'noodle' about 1-inch in diameter. Cut 1/2-inch pieces and turn them over so the cut sides are facing up. Flatten with your palm and roll out thin using a rolling pin. The dumpling wrapper should end up about 4 inches in diameter.

Pork and Ginger Filling:
  • 3 cups Napa or regular cabbage, shredded
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1/2 pound ground pork 
  • 2 tablespoons scallions, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, grated
  • 1 tablespoons garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoons sesame oil
  • 1 egg, beaten

Sprinkle cabbage with the salt and let stand for 30 minutes. Place the cabbage on a clean dishtowel or cheesecloth and squeeze out any water. You will be amazed at how much water can be extracted from the cabbage. The dryer the cabbage; the better.

In a large bowl, thoroughly mix the cabbage with all of the other ingredients. Cook a tester to check the seasoning and make any wanted adjustments.

Place a small mound of filling in the middle of the wrapper. Be very careful not to touch the edges with the filling as this will impede proper sealing of the dumplings. Fold the wrapper in half to form a half moon shape. Starting on one end, pleat the wrapper tightly together until the dumpling is completely sealed. There will be approximately 10 folds per dumpling. Rest the dumplings with the folded edges straight up. You can also use a dumpling press, which makes uniform pot stickers and dramatically speeds up the process.

To cook, bring two inches of water to boil in a wok or sauce pot. To prevent dumplings from sticking during cooking, lightly coat the steamer basket with oil (or you can line the steamer basket with several cabbage leaves). Steam 6 dumplings at a time in the basket, being careful not to over-crowd, for 8-10 minutes with a tight fitting lid.

While dumplings are steaming, whisk together a tangy dipping sauce:

1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Combine all the ingredients and mix until honey is fully dissolved. Drizzle some sauce over pot stickers and garnish with chopped scallions. Serve remaining sauce in a small bowl for dipping.


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Saturday, January 25, 2014

Bourbon Butterscotch Blondies

Dare I say it? I can live without chocolate. Now, I am not saying that I don’t enjoy a Godiva truffle or a fudgy brownie from time to time, but I do not crave the sweetened product made from the seed of the tropical Theobroma Cacao tree the way some people do. Yet, like the other members of our family, I do have an insatiable sweet tooth. Enter the interminably adaptable blondie.

Of course, this recipe is nothing new. This easy, one-mixing-bowl recipe was one of the first I attempted as a teenager. Denser than chocolate chip cookies and more complex than brownies, these caramel-flavored bars can be customized to suit any taste. Like Congo bars (which typically contain coconut), blondies can be made with a variety of fillings like nuts, dried fruit, toffee, or any other chunky candy for added texture. Seasonal combinations could include cranberry- almond, mint-chocolate chip or cinnamon-raisin. While blondies aren't usually frosted since the brown sugar flavor tends to be sweet enough, we will let your sweet tooth decide if should add a layer of chocolate ganache or buttercream icing.

  • 1 stick margarine, melted
  • 1 cup light brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 tablespoon bourbon 
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup pecans, toasted and chopped (optional)
  • 1 cup butterscotch chips

Preheat oven to 350°F and grease a 7" x 11" baking dish. Mix the melted margarine with brown sugar and beat until smooth. Beat in egg and then bourbon. Add in the dry ingredients; baking powder, salt and flour. Once the batter is well combined, stir in nuts and butterscotch chips.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until set in the middle. A toothpick It is better to err on the side of caution with the baking time. In my experience, folks rarely complain about a gooey cookie.

Allow the pan to cool on a rack before cutting them. I cut them into 2" bars so it seems that there are more of the scrumptious little treats.



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Monday, January 20, 2014

Addictive Shaved Brussels Sprout Salad

Unlike the mushy, odorous green lumps we remember from childhood or the cream smothered version served in fancy-schmancy, yuppy-era restaurants, Brussels sprouts have reached the height of their popularity. We certainly consume our fair share in our house. Whether they are roasted, braised, or served raw, Brussels sprouts are fabulously healthy, not to mention downright tasty.

While Brussels sprouts were believed to have been grown in Italy in Roman times, the modern Brussels sprout we eat today were first cultivated in large quantities in Belgium (hence the name "Brussels" sprouts) as early as 1587. They were introduced to the U.S. in the 1800s and by 1900 were being grown in large quantities in California. With the development of the frozen food industry and improved production techniques, there are currently about 3000 acres of the tiny cabbages currently being grown today. This acreage supplies the majority of the U.S. and Canada (where they are more popular than in the U.S.)

Good quality Brussels sprouts are firm, compact, and vivid green. They should be free of yellowed or wilted leaves and should not be puffy or soft in texture. Those that have perforations in their leaves should be avoided as they may have aphids inside. If Brussels sprouts are sold individually, choose those of equal size to ensure that they will cook evenly. Brussels sprouts are available year round, but their peak growing period is from autumn until early spring.

Keep unwashed and untrimmed Brussels sprouts in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. Stored in a plastic bag, they can be kept for 10 days. Before washing Brussels sprouts, remove stems and any yellow or discolored leaves. Wash them well under running water to remove any insects living in the leaves. Brussels sprouts cook quickly and taste best when they have been cut into smaller pieces. If you want to freeze Brussels sprouts, blanch them first for between three to five minutes. They will keep in the freezer for up to one year.

Like cabbage, Brussels sprouts make great raw salads similar to coleslaw. Thin shavings of fresh Brussels sprouts tossed with a lemony vinaigrette topped with sieved boiled eggs, crunchy pistachios and salty grated Parmesan makes a marvelous addition to ANY meal.

  • 3 cups Brussels sprouts, shaved
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons truffle oil or olive oil
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • ¼ cup pistachios, shelled and chopped
  • 3 tablespoons Romano cheese, grated
  • 2 hard boiled eggs, finely diced or sieved

Clean and trim sprouts and “shave” by slicing as thinly as possible. We've tried using a food processor to shave the sprouts with little luck, but fell free to try it. We also tried the use of a mandolin, but the risk to fingers and the amount of waste were both too great. Patience and a sharp knife are the best tools for this procedure.

Mix sprouts, lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper, tasting as you go and adjusting to taste. If you are preparing ahead, set the salad in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

While feta cheese combines with the vinaigrette to make a creamy dressing, cheeses that are dryer, saltier more dense cheese actually work better in this salad. Romano or Parmesan have a nice piquancy that matches well, but we recommend grating it on the largest hole of a box grater.

To serve, lay the sprout “slaw” on a serving platter and top with grated cheese, chopped eggs and pistachios. There is no real need to toss the salad as the ingredients combine as the salad is being served.

One note of caution, this salad can be a bit addictive. There have been arm wrestling matches in our house over who gets to have the leftovers (when there are any). This salad will keep in the fridge for 2-3 days post arm wrestling.


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Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Heartwarming Matzoh Ball Soup

There are fewer meals more satisfying than a bowl of homemade soup on a cold winter day. Matzoh ball soup is commonly served at the Passover Seder, but is also eaten all year round. For neighbor and guest blogger, Ilene Benator, matzoh ball soup has healing properties beyond warming cold hands and noses, it has the power to melt hearts and heal souls. Here is her beautiful story and recipe:

Succulent broth and matzoh balls as big as my dad’s fist. Fluffy on the outside, the firmer center falls into the soup and softens in the hot liquid. This enjoyment of a family tradition was one of my favorite holiday memories. Sort of.

It was the time of year that chicken fat containers showed up in the fridge; because that was how my grandmother made it. I’m not exactly sure how or what she did with it, because my mother preferred to use the Manischewitz mix. With College Inn broth.

So my method is not exactly an old recipe passed down from generation to generation. But the result is the same - massive fluffy balls in a wonderful broth. I am more creative than my mom was, still using the mix as a base and making my own broth from scratch; only using the enclosed soup packet to boil the matzoh as an added way to get flavor. Recently, I started using smoked turkey legs to get an extra little bit of umami that makes the soup extra tasty.

But this story is not about my family’s tradition or secret recipe. It’s about what a soup means to a family. In my case, I married my husband after he lost his wife tragically from an illness that came on like the flu, but careened out of control into a condition that did not allow her lungs to get enough oxygen. I married into a family reeling from an unimaginable loss just eighteen months after she died.

While we were dating, I fully expected her family to be suspicious, cautious, and even hostile toward me. I met her father; my husband’s father-in-law, Richard, when on a trip with my now husband Seth. He was cordial and polite. This was as much as I could hope for under the circumstances, and I was fine with that.

A few months later, Richard came in town for Passover. I observed the holiday more strictly than my husband’s family had previously; eliminating bread products and surviving on matzoh for the week. The Seders were over, but we invited him to our house for leftovers and my special matzoh ball soup.

The broth that melted away the firm matzoh shell, did the same for Richard. After his first bowl, he smiled at me. After the second, I was now a part of the family. The cement of the exodus became the glue of our own relationship. No longer was there any pretense. My traditions would become his grandchildrens’ traditions and this made him very happy.

A few weeks ago we lost Richard to the sands of the infinite, inevitable end.  He will always be with us though, as long as there is matzoh ball soup.


Homemade Stock for Soup:
3 quarts of water
5 stalks of celery with greens
2 carrots, peeled, chopped to 1 inch segments
2 ½ cups (1 ¼ lbs.) sweet onions, peeled and quartered
3 cups chicken carcass remnants (or fresh chicken necks)
1 smoked turkey leg (or two smoked wing drummets), scored
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon thyme

Simmer on medium, then low for at least 6 hours. Add water if level is low. Strain and extract liquid. Place in refrigerator until the fat congeals at the top. Skim off the fat and dispose (or save if you like to use rendered chicken fat for your matzoh balls or other recipes).

Soup Broth:
10 cups homemade stock
One sliced carrot
One smoked turkey leg, scored
Four turns of ground pepper
1 teaspoon thyme
1 bay leaf

Cook on medium for one hour. Add some water or additional stock to replace steam, every fifteen minutes. After 30 minutes, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Do not salt and pepper to taste until after the full hour of cooking.

Matzoh Balls:
Using Manischewitz matzoh meal, prepare the dough according to the package instructions. Make sure to use extra virgin olive oil. It is the secret to fluffy matzoh balls. Form the balls carefully, being sure not to compress them too much. The package recommends 1-inch balls that should cook for 30 minutes. I prefer to make them 2 inches in diameter for huge matzoh balls, but it means cooking them for closer to an hour. Make a few extra to test doneness.

Take included soup packet and mix with boiling water in a large pot. Drop the matzoh balls into the boiling soup for five minutes. Cover and simmer on medium-low until expected time to assemble the soup for serving. By cooking the matzoh balls in the packet broth, they will soak up flavor from the broth, but will not make the servings cloudy.

Remove the matzoh balls from the package broth and drop into the actual soup and then cook over medium heat for another 5 minutes.

To serve, ladle 1-2 cups soup broth into bowls and add one matzoh per bowl. You can serve the soup with matzoh balls alone or with the addition of the chopped turkey leg. L'Chayim!

Original narrative, photos and recipe by Ilene Benator


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Friday, January 10, 2014

Post-Holiday Anise Pecan Cookies

The holidays are over, the kids are back in school and the house is quiet. Too quiet. I find myself missing the hubbub of the holiday season; football games blaring in the background, people coming and going, and always something cooking, baking or grilling. I didn't mind the extra vacuuming, loads laundry or dish washing duty. I also didn't mind the plethora of cookies in the pantry! The supply of biscotti, pizzelles, torrones and other goodies that seemed endless in mid-December are distant memories by mid-January.

Sitting with a piping cup of coffee wistfully wishing for a cookie to dunk, I had a jolt of recollection. Our neighbor, Amanda, knowing that we were inundating with baked goods, shared cookie dough for my favorite anise cookies rather than baking the treats. Taste buds tempted, I laid the dough on the counter to thaw and preheated the oven realizing that this might be one of the most appreciated holiday gifts that I received.

Anise is a common ingredient in Italian cooking especially in the making of Italian sausages, and is a flavor we enjoy in many sweet and savory dishes. Anise is also an excellent remedy for asthma, bronchitis cough and digestive disorders such indigestion, stomach pain, and nausea.

In addition to sharing a batch of cookie dough, Amanda shared her recipe so that you can enjoy them as well:

Anise Pecan Cookies
  • ½ cup butter or margarine, room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons anise extract
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
  • ½ cup pecans, chopped

Cream butter, sugar and anise extract together. Slowly beat in egg. Add flour, salt, and baking powder to the creamed butter mixture and blend until smooth. Stir in pecans and mix well.
Divide the cookie dough into two parts and form them into rolls. Wrap the rolls in waxed paper and chill for several hours.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F, Cut the dough into 1/8” slices and place on a greased cookie sheet. Bake the cookies for 8-10 minutes or until lightly browned.


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Monday, January 6, 2014

Polar Vortex Hot and Sour Soup

We rarely ate in restaurants when I was a kid; rarely as in four or five times a year on special occasions. When the special occasion happened to be my birthday, my pick was most often a Chinese restaurant where the atmosphere was so distinctly different that I felt as though I had traveled to a distant land. There were items on the menu that I could not pronounce and aromas coming from the kitchen that I had no mental reference to describe. We usually ordered a “Family Dinner” with soup and dishes for the table to share. Sizzling rice soup was the unanimous soup of choice, but I was always enticed by the dark, viscous hot and sour soup visible on others' tables. How could it be hot and sour? How hot? How sour?

Once I finally had my chance to assuage my curiosity, I began a love affair with this alluring concoction. The many layers of flavor and the variety of textures were intoxicating (even with no alcohol.) When I was sick or sad, I found myself craving the curative elixir, yet I was far too intimidated to attempt this complex soup at home.

When the polar vortex went wonky and the outdoor temperatures dipped into the single digits in Atlanta (a rare occurrence to be sure), a decidedly hot (in both heat and in spice) bowl of soup became the order du jour. After a bit of internet surfing, I discovered that I indeed had all the ingredients on hand and endeavored to create a passable version with dubious confidence. Much to my surprise, not only was the much-anticipated lunch passable, it was downright delicious – REALLY delicious!

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 garlic clove, smashed and minced
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
  • 4 scallions, white and green parts, minced
  • 1/3 cup carrots, thinly julienned
  • 4 cups store-bought or homemade chicken stock
  • 1 cup cooked chicken, cut into ½ cubes
  • 1 pound firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes
  • ½ cup button mushrooms, sliced
  • 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil, plus more for garnish
  • 2 teaspoons hot sauce, or to taste
  • 2 large eggs
  • Black pepper for garnish

In the saucepan, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until hot. Add the garlic, ginger, scallion, carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 1 minute. Do not scorch the garlic or it will turn bitter. Wipe mushrooms clean with a moist paper towel and slice thinly. You can substitute dried, rehydrated wood ear mushrooms if you wish.

Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Add tofu to the broth. I used firm tofu, but not extra firm. Add the chicken, mushrooms, sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, black pepper, sesame oil, and hot sauce (or you can use Sriracha if you choose)  and bring the soup back to a simmer over medium-high heat. Taste the soup. If you want it hotter, add more hot sauce; if you like your soup to be sourer, add a little extra vinegar (which I did.) I ended adding what I would approximate to be 2/3 cup vinegar in total and 1 ½ teaspoons of black pepper in total.


In a small bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. With the soup at a steady simmer, slowly whisk in the eggs so they form strands. Bring the soup back to a simmer. Divide the soup among 4 to 6 bowls and garnish each with a little sesame oil, scallion, and white or black pepper. Serve immediately.
Really delicious!

Any Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. The soup may take on a slightly different appearance, but it will taste just the same.


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