Chefs "Driven" By Excellence

The Buick Discovery Tour, featuring Celebrity Chef Michael Psilakis rolled into St. Regis in Atlanta offering locals the opportunity to mingle with celebrity chefs, attend cooking demonstrations, participate in a wine tasting and get a first-hand look at the latest Buick luxury lineup. Buick, in partnership with FOOD & WINE magazine, gave Atlantans the chance to “discover” gourmet cuisine, fine wine and luxury vehicles.

Our tour began with a view of a fleet of 2013 Buicks including the Verano, Lacrosse, Encore, and Enclave. Informative product presenters and a legion of personal driving concierges provided information about the luxurious amenities of the vehicles while guiding drivers around a 2-mile test-drive course.

We were then escorted to an exhibition of pastry magic by Chef Partner Ben Roche of Chicago’s Baume & Brix. The former co-host of “Future Foods” on Discovery’s Planet Green Network and molecular gastronomist (the application of both scientific and artistic principles in cuisine,) demonstrated how to bring egg whites to a stiff peak to make a yuzu chiboust (pastry cream lightened with Italian meringue) to accompany coconut rice pudding and caraway (yes, caraway!) ice cream topped with crispy fried rice noodles. The experience was one-of-a-kind.

Next, we were treated to a cooking demonstration by the adorable and vivacious Andrea Curto-Randazzo who is best known as a Top-Chef contender in 2007. Chef Andrea showed us how to prepare a spice-rubbed pork “butt” with “citified” collards and roasted sweet potatoes while entertaining us with her bubbly banter. We all sampled the offerings and marveled at the flavor combinations.

Wine Consultant Michael Green, owner of Liquid Assets Consulting Group, gave a captivating and animated lecture, condensing a 20-week wine seminar into a 20-minute lesson and tasting. Attendees tasted a pouring of Rodney Strong 201 Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc and compared its flavor alone and after a bite of lemon noting that the lemon’s acidity altered the drinker’s perception of the wine’s flavor. We then sipped a Tapeña Tempranillo with a nip of Lindt’s dark chocolate with sea salt. His best advice, “if a particular wine tastes good to you, then it is a good wine.”

The grand finale featured charismatic accountant-turned-Chef Michael Psilakis (Co-executive producer and co-star of BBC America’s “No Kitchen Required” and Gourmand World Cookbook Award -winning author) spicing, searing and mixing his way through his recipe for gyro-spiced sliders with tsatziki sauce while waxing nostalgic about family food memories and growing up Greek.  We were all excited to receive a signed copy of Michael’s How to Roast a Lamb to take home as a reminder of the amazing event!

And, as if that weren't enough - for every attending guest, Buick will make a donation to The FEED Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to improving the global food system, starting with ensuring nutritious school meals for all children.

Welsh Cakes for Dewi Sant

Welsh cakes (pice ar y maen in Welsh) are traditionally cooked on a bakestone (a maen in Welsh) which is a cast iron griddle about ½-inch thick. These scone-like cakes resemble crumpets and are about 2 inches in diameter and about half an inch thick. Welsh cakes are usually dusted with sugar, and served hot or cold. They are a common treat eaten on St. David's Day which is celebrated annually on March 1st with many Welsh people wearing a daffodil or a leek (or both) on their lapels.*

St. David is the patron saint of Wales, but little is actually known about his life. He was a Celtic monk thought to have been a tall, gentle man who was unusually strong despite his frugal diet. He was believed to be the descendant of a Ceredigion Prince and of the legendary King Arthur. St. David traveled widely throughout Wales, Ireland, England and France and he founded several churches and a monastery in Wales and eventually became an archbishop.

This recipe calls for soaking dried fruit in hot black tea similar to recipes for the emblematic Welsh fruitcake, Bara Brith. It adds a distinctive flavor that lends to the authenticity of these folkloric delights and screams “Dydd Gŵyl Dewi Sant!”

• 1/2 cup mixed dried fruit (raisins, cranberries, currants)
• 1 cup hot strong black tea (we suggest English Breakfast or Earl Gray)
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter
• 1 cup self-rising flour
• 1/4  teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1 egg
• Splash of milk, if needed
• Marmalade for serving if desired

Mix together the dried fruit and cranberries in a large bowl, then pour the hot tea over. Cover with cling film and leave to soak overnight. Drain the fruit and discard the tea.

Cut butter into the flour to combine. It helps to cut the cold butter into smaller pieces first and then toss them separately into the flour making sure they each get covered in flour before you start “cutting.” There are several ways to cut the butter and flour together. I prefer to use a pastry blender made specifically for this purpose. My mom uses two butter knives moving them in opposite directions (kind of like a sharpening motion) actually cutting the butter. A fork works too, but care should be taken not to over “mash” the butter.

Add the sugar, spices, dried fruit and then the egg. Mix to combine, and then form a ball of dough, using a splash of milk if needed. Roll out the pastry until it is a ¼’ thick and cut into 3’ rounds with a biscuit cutter. If you don't have a biscuit cutter you can use an empty tin, vegetable or tuna can.

Rub the griddle with butter and wipe away the excess. Place the griddle over the burners and wait until it heats up, then place the Welsh cakes on the griddle. They need to cook about 2-3 minutes each side. Each side needs to be caramel brown before turning although some people I know like them almost burnt. Turn cake to brown the other side.

Remove the cakes from the griddle and dust with powdered sugar while still warm. Some people leave out the dried fruit, opting to split the cooled cakes and sandwich them together with jam.

*The daffodil is a national symbol which is in season during March and the leek is Saint David's personal symbol. Welsh troops were able to distinguish each other from opposing English troops dressed in similar fashion by wearing leeks. Interestingly, the association leeks and daffodils have similar names in Welsh: Cenhinen (leek) and Cenhinen Pedr (literally "Peter's leek" for daffodil). 

College Cooking Series: Chapter 1 - Here We GO!

Moments after you receive your college acceptance letter(s), you start planning for the big move to campus. You start the shopping list: towels; extra-long twin sheets; coffee maker; hot pot; toaster oven; microwave; but, do you really need these items?

Many colleges and universities require freshman students to live on campus which typically means living in a dorm room and eating in the dining hall. If that is the case, then you won’t need much in the way of cooking equipment (which you won’t have room for anyway). In fact, many colleges prohibit small appliances in dorm rooms for safety reasons and will immediately confiscate any unauthorized items.

Once you are out of a cramped dorm room, you are most likely to be off the meal plan as well. While cooking meals for yourself may sound intimidating, it doesn't have to be hard or time consuming. The biggest “trick” to becoming a good cook is knowing how to read! If you can read directions on a package or a recipe, you are more than halfway to being a chef. Like everything else, practice makes perfect; the more you cook, the better you get at cooking.

There is no reason for you to eat ramen noodles every night, to fill your pantry with boxes of fluorescent orange mac and cheese, or to be on a first-name-basis with the pizza delivery guy. With the right tools and trusted standbys, cooking on your own can be done quickly, cheaply and, most importantly, can be healthy (or at least healthier.)

This is the first post in a weekly series geared specifically at high school seniors and college students preparing for apartment living. Over the next weeks, we will cover the appliances, pots and pans, and utensils you will need to set up your college kitchen. We will expound upon how to stock your cupboards, explain some fundamental cooking techniques, and even give you a few simple recipes to get you started on your way to sustaining yourself in a healthy and economical way. In the meantime, we have a homework assignment to get you thinking about learning to feed yourself.

Homework: Begin reading the food packaging of food items you frequently eat. Read the nutritional information and pay special attention to preparation instructions. Think about how you would prepare these dishes if you were on your own. Let us know in the comments, what meal you think you will cook the most at school. 

Chicken in Curry Cream

This one of the first recipes I made for Dom when we were dating. He did most of the cooking and I knew this was something he would never make himself. This easy skillet chicken is flavored with curry powder, cream, and a little rum.

• 4-6 boneless chicken breast cutlets
• ¾ cup butter 
• 1/3 cup Coconut flavored rum (Malibu or Cocoribe)
• 1 teaspoon curry powder
• 1 cup heavy cream

Place the chicken breasts between 2 sheets of waxed paper or plastic wrap and hit with glancing blows, working from the center to the edge using a meat mallet or a rolling pin to flatten the cutlets to ¼” thickness.

Sauté chicken in butter on medium heat for about 10 minutes each side until juices run clear. Remove chicken to a plate and set aside. Add rum to the pan to deglaze it. Cook until the alcohol burns off and the liquid is reduced by half. Mix curry and cream together and add to the pan. Simmer on medium heat for another 10 or so minutes. Add the cooked cutlets back to the pan to reheat and coat fully with the curry cream sauce. Serve with rice or couscous and a favorite vegetable for a fabulous family meal.

Red Velvet Madeleines

There is nothing like having teenagers to make you feel old. I made reference to a “cakewalk” and was treated to a volley of eye rolls. Come to find out neither even knew what a cakewalk was. Also known as a “prize walk,” a cakewalk is a hopscotch-meets-musical-chairs raffle in which numbered squares are laid out in a circle for ticket holders to walk around in time to music, which is played for an irregular length of time and then stopped. A number is then called out, and the person standing on the corresponding square on the floor wins a cake as a prize (hence the name).

While growing up in the country, our rural church would have an annual fundraising carnival at which the cakewalk was THE event. The primary reason for its popularity was the community confectionist, Juanita Gunnells’ cakes and candies. She would always donate a German chocolate cake, a red velvet cake, and depending on the weather divinity or peanut butter fudge.*


I was always fascinated by the unnaturally-red, red velvet cake whose color was explained as a chemical reaction between the often-used buttermilk and the red anthocyanin found in cocoa powder. In reality, the red coloring was added to hide the fact that a minimal amount of cocoa powder was used especially during World War II when beet juice was used to add color to red velvet cakes.

Since Dom is not big on cakes, but enjoys a good cookie or pastry, I decided to try a red velvet variant. I had found a French madeleine pan at an antique shop that I was dying to use, so it was providence.  Dusted with confectioner’s sugar, these made a romantic-looking Valentine’s Day treat!

• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3/4 cup butter, melted
• 3 tablespoons red food coloring
• 1 1/2 cups cake flour (yes, it really does make a difference)
• 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• Powdered sugar (optional)

Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine the sugar, eggs, yolks and vanilla in a mixing bowl and beat at medium-high speed with an electric mixer for 5 minutes or until thick and pale. Add butter and food coloring to the mixture, and beat until well-blended.

Whisk together the cake flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt, and then fold in the egg mixture. Spoon the batter into 2 well-greased shiny madeleine pans, filling three-fourths full (about 1 tablespoon per madeleine). Since I only have one pan, I baked mine in batches; placing the batter in the refrigerator between batches.

Bake at 400° for 8 to 10 minutes or until the centers of the madeleines spring back when lightly pressed. Immediately remove madeleines from the pan to prevent sticking and cool on a wire rack. Cool completely (about 20 minutes) and dust with powdered sugar just before serving, if desired.

*Because of the high sugar content, divinity absorbs moisture from the air on a humid days and can end up a gooey mess.

It's Not Chocolate; It's Cacao

This post was originally written for inclusion on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on February 13, 2013:
  
Valentine’s Day always conjures images of roses and chocolates. The Valentine’s Day gifts of our youth were usually foil-wrapped, milk chocolate cones produced by The Hershey Company. Today chocolate is as widely varied as wine, micro-brewed beers or designer olive oil from coveted Belgian chocolates to handcrafted specialty chocolates.

Most Atlantans do not realize how lucky we are to have a true chocolate maker in our midst.  A chocolate maker buys and roasts cocoa beans and grinds them into chocolate, while a chocolatier uses existing bars (called couverture) to create their confections. Kristen Hard, owner and founder of Cacao Atlanta, is both the first bean-to-bar chocolate maker in the Southeast and the first female bean-to-bar producer in the U.S. There are approximately 20 chocolate makers currently in the United States; conversely, there are hundreds of chocolatier.

One might envision the life of a chocolate whisperer as being that of champagne-sipping glamour rather than the muck-trudging adventures Kristen endures to secure her carefully-sourced cocoa beans including an overnight stay in a broken-down car in the Peruvian jungle while four months pregnant. With a mischievous smile she adds, “It was worth it to bring home the best beans for our customers.” Once she has the beans at her 3000-square-foot “laboratoire” in Inman Park, she roasts the beans, removes the shells and breaks them into small pieces. A paste is then formed, refined and kneaded to develop flavor, and at last the chocolate is tempered and poured into molds.

Kristen’s latest marvel is the “Love Bar” which is a 75% dark chocolate bar created from Hispaniola cocoa beans.  The beans have been fermented and dried in the sun on a small, family-owned estate in the Dominican Republic. This bar is wonderfully full-bodied; not overly sweet with natural undertones of raspberry and coffee. Other seasonal offerings include the Valentine’s Day Sweet and Spicy Box of Love (with 12 flavored artisanal chocolates including cayenne passion fruit, strawberry pate de fruit, white chocolate rosewater, Aztec aphrodisiac, raspberry thyme, and almond marzipan) as well as chocolate flowers to celebrate Spring. Kristen is excited to be doing her three-foot chocolate rabbit again this year for Easter and will feature a selection of irresistible Easter eggs and bunnies.

And for those of you who would like to do more than woo your sweetheart with a box of truffles this year, it is not too late. You can immerse your sweetie in the world of chocolate at one of five 40-minute classes taught by Kristen herself on Valentine’s evening. The class will feature a brief educational talk, three ounces of chocolate to craft your own confections, hot cocoa, cookies and pastries. Classes are held at the Inman Park factory store. For more information, please visit http://www.cacaoatlanta.com/events.

Curative Rice and Asparagus Frittata

For the last few weeks, everyone in our house has suffered from a cold. All of us in various stages of sniffling, sneezing, coughing… you get the picture. So following the old "BRAT" rule, we have been consuming quite a bit of bananas, rice, apples and tea. Which for a day or two is fine, but you can only eat so much plain rice and applesauce before you long for something with some flavor and substance!

Eggs are very easy to digest and are high in protein not to mention that they are wonderfully versatile. Admittedly, at first the idea of an egg frittata seemed a bit odd, but rice pudding and tamago sushi came to mind and my doubts were quashed.

In addition to being a good sickbed comestible, this unfolded Italian omelet is perfect for brunch or a quick weeknight dinner. This tasty frittata has a particularly pleasing texture, light and toothsome at the same time with a nice crust on the bottom, especially when cooked in a heavy cast-iron skillet. It also lends itself to many delicious variations. Any manner of leftovers (vegetables, mushrooms, sausage) and herbs can simply be folded into the mixture with the rice before cooking or topped with cheese* or a fresh salsa before being served.

• 2 teaspoons butter
• 4 eggs
• ¼ cup milk (or other liquid such as broth or tomato juice)
• 1 cup cooked rice
• ½ cup cooked vegetables (optional)
• ¼ teaspoon dried herbs (of your choice, if using)
• ½ cup shredded cheese (optional)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Beat eggs until frothy and add milk, rice, and filling ingredients in medium bowl until blended. The filling(s) should be cooked, not raw and cut into pieces that are fairly small and drained well. Herbs, and salt and pepper should be added and well mixed.

Heat butter in 6 to 8-inch pan or skillet over medium-low heat until melted. Pour in egg mixture and cook over low to medium heat until eggs are almost set, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Preheat broiler.  Remove the skillet from the burner and place under the broiler (if your pan does not have an ovenproof handle you should wrap it completely in aluminum foil). If desired, sprinkle with shredded cheese, bread crumbs or even crushed chips. Broil about 6 inches from heat for several minutes until the eggs are firmly set and no visible liquid egg remains and cheese is melted or topping is lightly browned.

Transfer the frittata to a serving platter and serve or cut into wedges and place on individual serving plates.

*Cheese and other dairy products can be difficult to digest and contain casein which is a mucus-forming agent. Casein is the dominant protein in foods such as milk, cheese, yogurt, ice cream and butter. Its gluey texture and histamine-creating properties cause increased mucus production and nasal congestion.

Venerable Salmon Alfredo

While the word “lent” actually comes from the Old English word: lencten meaning “springtime,” the term most commonly refers to the 40-day fast in penitential preparation for Easter which has been observed by many Christians since apostolic times. This time of fasting and alms giving is meant to remind the faithful of Christ’s fasting in the dessert. Traditional Lenten rules stipulated that only one meal a day was allowed in the evening, and that meat, fish, eggs, and butter were forbidden. These rules were gradually relaxed.

Present-day fasting laws are very simple: On Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, the faithful have only one full meal (abstaining from meat) and smaller snacks to keep up one's strength, and; on the other Fridays of Lent, the faithful abstain from meat. We get in the habit of having fish on Fridays and often continue to have seafood on Fridays long after the Lent period has ended especially as the springtime weather turns muggy and hot.

Not being big fans of the frozen, pre-breaded fish by-products commonly included in TV dinners since the 1950s, we are always looking for ways to avoid getting into a Lenten rut. Earlier in the week, Dom had fired up the Big Green Egg and grilled some cedar-planked salmon of which there were some leftovers. This creamy salmon alfredo is rich and flavorful. We might not mind getting in a rut if this dish becomes a regular on the Friday menu!

• 1 pound pasta of choice (we used farfalle)
• 1 ½ cups low-fat milk
• 1 tablespoon flour
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons cream cheese (light is fine)
• ¾ cup Parmesan cheese
• 1 pound salmon, cooked (smoked or canned)
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Capers, drained and patted dry (optional)

Prepare a non-stick skillet with cooking spray and heat over medium. Add shallot and cook until soft. (You may add a few drops of water to help soften if needed.) Sprinkle flour over softened shallots and mix well. Add milk a little at a time and mix until flour has completely dissolved. Cook on medium heat stirring continuously for 8 minutes, then add cream cheese and mix until incorporated. Simmer for 2 more minutes before adding Parmesan cheese and salmon. Reduce heat to low and simmer until pasta is done.

Cook pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water and cook for about 10 minutes. Be sure to check the package instructions as the times may vary depending on the type of pasta (e.g. the farfalle package says 12 minutes rather than 10.) Do not overcook the pasta or it will be soggy and break apart when tossed. Drain the pasta without delay in a large colander remembering to save some of pasta water to help hydrate the pasta and sauce if needed later. While some recipes may tell you to rinse the pasta in cold water, we do not recommend it as cold pasta does not absorb the sauce as well.

Transfer the cooked, drained pasta to a mixing bowl and pour the salmon sauce over the top. Gently toss the pasta and sauce together to combine fully without breaking up macaroni. If the sauce seems thick and hard to mix, add some of the reserved pasta water a ¼-cup at a time. Serve the salmon alfredo immediately with a garnish of drained capers and an extra sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese.

Technique of the Week: Acidulating

Acidulating is a fancy term for a water mixture that has been made acidic. This method is usually used to prevent cut fruits (pears, apples, avocados) and vegetables (artichokes) from discoloring and turning brown from exposure to oxygen.  Any form of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) will work including lime juice, orange juice, cream of tartar, a crushed vitamin C tablet dissolved in water, or even ground chili pepper. The acid lowers the potenz hydrogen (pH) levels on the surface of the food, which also will slow the browning process. When using an acidulated water soak, the food should not be saturated, or it will taste soggy, and it should be patted dry before being eaten or used.

Acidulating liquid can impart a sour flavor to fruits, so a pinch of sugar is recommended to reduce the pucker. Since salt also slows browning, a pinch of salt added to soaking vegetables will add flavor and aid against discoloration. Additionally, vegetables (such as green beans) can be cooked in acidulated water which will help them to retain their color instead of graying or browning when they are cooked. This can make cooked vegetables look much more appetizing, and the faint hint of acid will add to the flavor.

Acidulated water also is used in poaching because the lower pH of the water will help the proteins in ingredients such as eggs and fish to cook thoroughly. When poaching eggs, a couple of teaspoons of white vinegar are all you need. Bring the water to a boil, then turn down to simmer. The vinegar water should have tiny bubbles that stick to the bottom of the pan, NOT a rolling boil. Crack your eggs into a bowl, and then slowly tip the eggs from the bowl into the water.

Additionally, fresher eggs will hold a better, rounder shape. The whites in fresher eggs are usually tighter and more congealed. After about three minutes in the water, the eggs will be poached medium. Remove from the acidulated water with a slotted spoon and serve.

Dutch Baby, Baby

It is a chilly, dreary morning and a warm Dutch Baby will be just the thing to serve for breakfast! This sweet German-style pancake is similar to Yorkshire pudding and is best served with lemon and confectioner's sugar. The name is derived from the German word pfannkuchen (pfanne and kuchen meaning "pan" and "cake").

In Southwest Germany, sliced pancake strips (flädle) are often served in soups. In the Netherlands, pancake restaurants are popular with families and serve many sweet, savory, and stuffed varieties. Like the Dutch baby, these egg-based pancakes (or pannenkoeken) are usually quite large (12" or so in diameter) and are filled with sliced apples, cheese, ham, bacon, stroop*, and candied ginger, alone or in combination.

• 3 Tablespoons butter
• 3 eggs
• 3/4 cup flour
• 3/4 cup milk
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
• Lemon wedges
• Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Place butter in a 10" - 12" skillet or heavy baking dish and place in oven while preheating. Remove the pan before butter starts to brown. In the meantime, beat eggs until foamy; add milk, flour, salt and vanilla and blend together until just mixed. Pour into hot skillet and return to oven for approximately 15 - 20 minutes until golden brown and puffed.

Remove the pancake from oven and dust with confectioner’s sugar. Don't be disappointed if the pancake falls soon after being removed from the oven. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and extra pats of butter. When the lemon juice mixes with the confectioner's sugar it makes a creamy lemony sauce that is perfect. Make sure you eat it while still warm; it is not nearly as good when it is cold!

*Stroop is a thick molasses-like, fruit-based syrup which is popular especially in combination with bacon.

Technique of the Week: Steaming

Steaming is a wet cooking method that transfers heat to food via conduction, (i.e. from direct contact with the water vapor,) and convection, (i.e. from the upward motion of the water vapor.)  Steaming is a highly effective method of transferring energy.  Steaming doesn't leach away nutrients like immersion methods do since the food is not surrounded by roiling liquid.  Steaming is ideal for more delicate meats and vegetables which would be damaged by the greater agitation and disruptive force of boiling or simmering water. Steaming and “health food” are practically synonymous making it the cooking method of choice for dieters everywhere since there is no fat employed whatsoever.

There are a number of equipment options for steaming.  The first is the classic bamboo steamer, traditionally used to make a variety of Asian dishes.  They can be stacked on top of each other thus allowing the simultaneous steaming of multiple items.  Then, there is the traditional steaming pan which is basically a sauce pan with holes in the bottom that sits snugly on top of another saucepan which holds the steaming liquid. The most popular folding steamer insert, designed to conform to the diameter of any pot within its particular range.  Our personal favorite is a silicone version of the steamer insert, but a colander set inside a larger pot of simmering water is an inexpensive, make-shift version.

Regardless of the vessel, the concept is that food placed in the upper section of a steamer is cooked by the heat and vapor of the liquid boiling in the lower section. A well-fitting lid, to keep the steam in, is important. Careful timing is essential as steamed food is tasteless if even slightly overcooked. Steaming is pretty straightforward.  Bring the water to a gentle boil and place the food in the steamer and cover.  Just make sure the food is not in direct contact with the liquid water.  If you’re steaming something that takes an extended amount of time, you may need to add a little hot water during the process to compensate for evaporation.

Basic steaming is obviously performed with water, but you can use a flavored liquid and impart additional flavor to the food.  Court-bouillon is a broth made from water, wine, vinegar and/or citrus juice, aromatics and herbs.  Traditionally it is employed for poaching but you can use it as a steaming liquid as well.  Moreover, when the item is done steaming you can utilize what’s left of the Court-bouillon as a sauce.  For more intensity, boil some of it down for a richer sauce.

Potatoes are great candidates for steaming. The advantage of this method, especially with floury potatoes, is that none of the starch is lost in the water and there is no violent agitation to break up the potatoes. Cut the potatoes to a uniform shape and size and place in the top half of a steamer with the water below set to boil vigorously.

Most vegetables can be steamed in about five minutes.  Do not over-steam or your green vegetables will start to lose their vibrant hues.  Vegetables can be steamed in their own juice. Spinach, for example, may be put, wet from washing, into a covered pan and shaken over moderate heat for about 5 minutes. It will then be soft, bright green and much reduced. Press to extract excess moisture, add a tablespoon or 2 of butter and season. Green beans are another vegetable that lend themselves to steaming.

Steamed Green Beans Gremolata

• 1 lb. green beans, trimmed
• 1 tablespoon lemon zest
• ½ cup fresh parsley, minced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• ¼ teaspoon salt

Bring water to a boil and place steamer over water. Place the beans in the steamer basket and allow to steam for 8 minutes and test one of the beans for doneness. The beans should be until tender but still crisp and bright green. If they if they are not yet done, check again at 12 minutes. Remove beans from steamer and turn out into a mixing bowl.

Gremolata is an Italian herb condiment typically made of lemon zest, garlic, and parsley. Combine zest, parsley, garlic in a small bowl and slowly drizzle in olive oil stirring until well blended.

While the beans are still hot, toss them with two tablespoons of Gremolata and sprinkle with lemon juice. The lemon juice is added just before serving to keep the beans from turning brown (so, do not do this ahead of time).  When ready to serve, place the beans on a serving plate and sprinkle with salt and garnish with a bit more chopped parsley. Serve hot or at room temperature.

These beans are delicious cold too. They can be kept covered in the fridge for up to 3 days. Toss them in a salad or just eat with your fingers.

Andouille Po'Boys in the 'Hood

Excerpted from the post originally appearing on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on January 16, 2013 :

Many people do not know that the term Mardi Gras actually means “Fat Tuesday.” Fat Tuesday is the last day of the Carnival season that begins January 6th which is the twelfth day after Christmas, (yes, like in the song). Fat Tuesday is the last opportunity to celebrate before Lent which begins on Ash Wednesday. This pre-Lenten carnival has Roman Catholic origins and is celebrated in New Orleans, as well as Brazil, France, Germany and…Atlanta!

The Virginia-Highland neighborhood of Atlanta is known for its great restaurants and bars, several of which  have annual Fat Tuesday celebrations, but few more energetic than the festivities at D.B.A. Barbecue. This chef-owned, casual restaurant located behind the community post office goes all out with plenty of beads, Cajun-inspired menu items and specialty drinks like hurricanes and Louisiana pints to add to the authenticity of the evening.

According to Assistant Kitchen Manager George Jewell, in addition to their regular Southern barbecue menu, the evening’s offerings will include fresh oysters, gumbo and several po’boys including battered shrimp, fried oyster and Andouille sausage. With a little prodding, George, an Atlanta native who has worked at D.B.A. for three years, shared the technique for assembling the perfect Andouille po’boy including the formula for making Creole mayonnaise:

• 1 hoagie roll
• 2 links of Andouille sausage
• 2 tablespoons Creole mayonnaise*
• ½ cup coleslaw

Cut the Andouille links lengthwise and place on a hot griddle to sear and heat through. Place cut bread on the griddle to warm as well.

*Make Creole mayonnaise by mixing equal parts Creole mustard and mayonnaise together until fully combined. Add salt and pepper to taste and add a drop or two of Tabasco sauce if you like a little kick.

Spread both sides of heated bread with a generous amount of mayo and then lay seared sausage cut side up on bread. Top the sausage with coleslaw and serve with Cajun-spiced fries or a side of red beans and rice.

If you are in the Atlanta area you can experience this amazing sandwich first hand, head on over to D.B.A. Barbecue for beads, live music and delicious food on Tuesday, February 12th.

Humble Corn Soufflé

Many people assume that because we cook and write about food that we are food snobs. Sometimes we are asked “Do you eat like this all the time?” Like what? Yes, we cook and eat at home, but not every dish or meal that we serve is chichi. Cooking at home is more about creating an environment that keeps everyone coming back for more than pretentious dining. Simple roasted cauliflower or a quick tomato salad graces our table as often or more frequently than haute cuisine.

We try to use fresh vegetables when they are in season, but during the winter months it can be a challenge to find freshly-picked ingredients. Corn is one of the few vegetables that maintains good flavor and consistency when canned. A co-worker introduced Dom to this soufflé-like casserole when we were first married and after many years, we revived the forgotten recipe. This casserole is wicked quick to make and is quite tasty.

• 1 (15 oz.) can whole kernel corn, undrained
• 1 (15 oz.) can cream-style corn
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/2 cup butter, melted
• 1 fresh jalapeno, seeded and diced
• 1 (8 oz.) box Jiffy corn muffin mix (or recipe below)
• {or 1 2-oz. can of diced green chilies}, (optional)
• 1/2 teaspoon coriander, (optional)
• Pinch of cumin, (optional)

Corn Bread Mix: (8 oz. mix equivalent)

• 2/3 cup flour
• 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Mix corn and other wet ingredients together and combine well.  Add muffin mix and stir until completely combined. Pour batter into a greased 9 X 13 baking dish or casserole pan.

Bake the casserole for 50-60 minutes until completely set. The casserole should not jiggle at all when shaken. The top of the casserole should be nicely browned and cracked. Let dish stand for about 5 minutes before serving.

Technique of the Week: Deglazing

Deglazing is the technique of dissolving the caramelized tidbits of seared foods is dissolved with a liquid in order to make a “pan sauce,” which will maximize the flavor of the finished dish. Most often the seared item is meat, but it could also be vegetables, either as a main dish or as a building block of another dish.

Deglazing can be done with any liquid. Alcohol or stock is most frequently used, but water works just as well.  The method of choice to achieve the best flavor is alcohol followed by some type of stock. While wine is most commonly used (red wine with red meat and white meat with white wine), but options include brandy, cognac, Marsala, sherry, port, or even vodka.  The type of alcohol chosen is determined by the nature of the dish and the flavor profile desired.  For example, for a sweeter sauce you would use a port.  For a more complex, earthy and aromatic sauce, you might try a good cognac. And, in the case of fajitas, tequila works best.

Before deglazing, drain any excess fat from the pan being careful not to dislodge and toss any of the browned bits. If you are adding aromatics (shallots, onions, garlic), simply sauté them with some salt and pepper in the leftover pan drippings.  Depending on how little drippings you have, you may even need to add some oil and/or butter to the pan.  Once the aromatics are sautéed you’re ready to deglaze.

Carefully add alcohol since it can self-ignite, especially brandies and hard liquors creating a flambé effect. The traditional warning is to remove the pan from the stove when adding the alcohol but spontaneous combustion is still possible. If your goal is to flambé the alcohol and it did not self-ignite, tip the pan so it touches the flame or use a match. Once the alcohol is added, or once the flames have subsided if you’re flambéing, bring it to a boil as you scrape the fond off the bottom of the pan.  A straight edged wooden spatula is the most effective tool for this job.  You are now deglazing.  All of those intensely flavored little bits will invitingly melt into the sauce, creating a complex web of flavor.  Usually the alcohol is reduced to at least half and sometimes even further.  Vaporizing it down to a syrupy glaze is a key flavor enhancing technique.

Once the alcohol is reduced add the stock.  Continue to boil and scrape, reducing the stock to at least half.  If you are not using alcohol simply add the stock from the get-go and deglaze accordingly.  Once the stock is added, season with salt, pepper, herbs, zest, etc.  Or, if not using stock, (such as when making a sauce based solely on wine), add the seasoning after the initial deglazing with the alcohol. Once the alcohol and/or stock has been reduced to the desired thickness, the final step is to add cream or butter. Add cream and simmer for a few minutes to concentrate it or if using butter, add a tablespoon or two of cold butter and remove the sauce from the heat the instant it has melted.  Strain the sauce and serve.

The same procedure is used for making a sauce for roasts. If making a gravy, after you add flour to the drippings and cook it to make a roux, deglazing occurs when the stock is added.  Whisk the stock into the roux scraping up the fond as you go.

Sautéed vegetables can be deglazed by adding vegetable or chicken stock. For tomato sauce, deglaze the garlic and/or other sautéed aromatics with wine, reduce, and then add the tomatoes.  For rice pilaf and risotto, deglaze the aromatics and rice with wine before adding the stock. Deglazing the fond will also boost the flavor of soups and stews.  Virtually anything that can be seared or sautéed can be deglazed.

Technique of the Week: Toasting

It only seems appropriate that this we post this on New Year's Eve. Even though toast is found on our table at breakfast, lunch or dinner, toast is a typically considered to be a breakfast food. Sliced bread is browned by exposure to dry heat ("toasted"). This browning reaction is a form of the Maillard reaction. Toasting warms the bread, making it more pleasant to eat for some, allowing for butter to melt when placed on the surface, and makes it crisp such that it holds toppings more securely.

Toasting is also a common method of making stale bread palatable. Toast is often served with butter, cheese, marmalade, or any number of other toppings, thereby making an open-faced sandwich. There are several ways to make toast. You can make toast is a typical household toaster which is best for fewer slices, but to make more you can lay the slices of bread out on a cookie sheet and place in a 350 degree oven for 5-10 minutes each side. The thickness of the bread determines how long it should bake. Check frequently to ensure desired doneness. You can also broil the bread, but this is a bit tricky and is best done for open faced sandwiches or to melt ingredients that are being served on the toast. You can toast bread in a pan on the stove. First melt ½ teaspoon of butter in the pan and coat bottom of pan, then place bread slice in the pan. After the first side is toasted, add another ½ teaspoon of butter to the pan and coat then brown the other side. Lastly, you can grill the bread. Lightly coat bread slices with olive oil and place on the grill, turning constantly until desired color is achieved.

The word “toast" is also used to describe the tradition of honoring a person or occasion with a drink. Europeans toast and clink glasses whenever possible, and we're seeing it more and more in America. From simple clinking of glasses with a friend to clinking all around in a crowd, cheery shouts of “Salud,” “Cin Cin,” “Skoal” and “Proost” abound. It is always good manners to look the holder of the other glass directly in the eye before you take a sip. More formal toasting is generally made by the host to an honored guest, but recently it has been extended to the host by a guest. What is said in a toast matters less than how it is said. For a toast to sound as if it just came to you in an affectionate flash, it will have to be prepared ahead of time. Know your message, how to open, and how to close. A quote is always nice. Be cheery, to the point, short and sweet. Lastly, mean what you say! If a toast isn't sincere, everyone will know it.

Festive Jamaican Rum Punch

Most of you know that we adulate the DeKalb Farmer’s Market. The huge market opened its 140,000-square-foot Decatur location just a few months before Dom and I met, and it was one of first places we went together when we were dating. As we have reiterated in other posts, we truly enjoy trying and experimenting with new and exotic ingredients and the market offers plenty of opportunities for exploration.

So when Dom brought home a mysterious bag of “sorrel flowers,” I was hardly surprised. A little research revealed that they were actually the dried sepals and calyxes of the roselle plant, a species of Hibiscus native to the tropics. They are prepared by boiling in water until the water turns red and adding sugar.  In Jamaica, the tea is also infused with ginger and clove then mixed with rum to make a festive punch which is very popular at Christmas time. Other variations made with fresh fruits, juices or extracts are used to make aguas frescas commonly consumed in Mexico, Central and South America.

• 1½ cups roselle calyxes 
• 2” piece fresh gingerroot, grated
• 3 whole cloves
• 6 cups water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 ½ cups light or amber rum
• 8 teaspoons marmalade
• lime slices for garnish

Comb through the flower calyxes to remove any that are damaged or spoiled. In a heatproof bowl, combine the calyxes, ginger, and cloves and pour 5 cups of boiling water over them. Let the mixture steep for 4 hours (or overnight).

While the mixture is steeping, make a simple syrup by bringing the remaining cup of water and the sugar to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved and let the syrup cool.
Strain the roselle liquid into a pitcher, discarding the solids, and stir in the simple syrup.

To serve, place 1 teaspoon of marmalade, 1 ½ ounces of rum, and ¾ cup of roselle tea in a 12-ounce glass and stir. Add crushed ice to fill and garnish the punch with the lime slices.

Lost and Found Clothespin Cookies

Growing up in the South, I had never heard of a cookie table. While the concept is easy enough to understand, the exact meaning of the term is harder to grasp until you come face to face with the cookie table itself. With acres of baked treats, it is truly a wonder to behold. These magnificent collections of delicacies are most often seen at weddings, but can also be found at anniversary celebrations, graduations, baptisms and funeral receptions.

Growing up in Youngstown, Ohio where the custom is said to have originated, Dom recalls cookie tables at family weddings that took all day to set up. Thousands of cookies all carefully arranged on platters each one more extravagant than the next. The custom dates back to the immigrant families (Italian, Eastern Europeans and Greeks) who worked in the steel mills and could not afford a wedding cake.

While the bride’s (extended; sometimes very) family does most of the baking, everyone is welcome to contribute. The obvious favorite is the buttery Italian wedding cookie, dusted with powdered sugar followed closely by pizzelles, flat wafers, round and lacy like a snowflake, with a whisper of anise or almond. Then there are the clothespin cookies (also called ladylocks because of their beautiful, spiral shape), flaky pastry horns formed by wrapping pastry dough around a wooden clothespin which is removed after baking and filled with a silky cream filling.

Each Christmas, Dom’s Aunt Phyll would make clothespin cookies which were reputed to be light as a feather with a crisp shell that would explode and then disappear to reveal a fluffy crème-filled center. Unfortunately, Aunt Phyll’s recipe was lost, but after many years of searching and experimenting, we think we have found a reasonable replacement for the missing heirloom recipe.

For the dough:

• 2 cups butter
• 3 egg yolks
• 1 cup sour cream
• 4 cups flour
• ¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 425 Degrees F. Mix butter and flour together in a large bowl. Add eggs and sour cream, and then beat until smooth. Chill the dough overnight. Roll the dough on floured board and using a pizza cutter, cut into 1-inch wide and 6-inch long strips. Wrap the dough onto clothespins or rods and bake for 10 to 12 minutes; the crust should be light brown. Let cool on a rack until completely cooled. Gently remove the tubes from the clothespins and set aside.

For the filling:

• 1 cup butter
• 2 cup powdered sugar
• 1 cup marshmallow crème
• 1 teaspoon vanilla

The filling can be made while the cookies are cooling. Cream together butter and sugar with an electric mixer until fluffy. Blend in marshmallow crème (also known as "Italian meringue") and vanilla until completely combined. Scoop the filling into a Ziploc bag or pastry bag and refrigerate until cookies are cooled and ready to be filled. Chilling the filling before use makes it easier to handle.

Once the cookies and filling have cooled, snip of the end of the Ziploc bag and insert into one end of the first cookie and gently squeeze filling into the tube. Once filled, set aside and fill each of the remaining cookies. If you are not serving them immediately, store them in the refrigerator and take out about 30 minutes before serving. Arrange them on a serving platter and dust with confectioner’s sugar.

Hot Holiday Gin Toddy

The weather in the South has finally turned colder, making it feel like it really is December and the season for celebrating the holidays with friends and family. With everyone’s busy schedules it can be difficult to find a time when everyone can get together. And, let’s face it, while it is always wonderful to see everyone at holiday parties, the usual party fare can get a bit tiresome. If you have seen one cheese log, you've seen them all, right? So why not try something a bit different this year?  Perhaps an after-dinner party with desserts and warm drinks with everyone gathering around a fireplace?

Now what to serve?

Normally, we would start the evening with cocktails; a favorite being gin and tonic. So in an “Ah-Ha” moment, we decided on “Gin Toddies” a sophisticated spin on the seasonal Hot Toddy to go along with artisanal cheeses and some homemade pizzelles, torrones and amaretti.

Hot Gin Toddy:

• 1 teaspoon sugar
• ½ cup boiling water
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 ½ oz. favorite brand of gin

Put a teaspoon of sugar in a heat proof glass or mug and add boiling water. Stir briefly to dissolve sugar and then add gin and lemon juice. Stir to combine and garnish drinks with your choice of cinnamon sticks, cloves, cardamom pods, star anise, or lemon slices.

Mix, drink, repeat! Happy Holidays!!

We Are in Love with Amaretti Cookies

My first introduction to opera came as a teenager when all things foreign appeared chic and romantic (especially if they were Italian). Even though I did not speak Italian, in my teenage angst, I could understand every poignant aria of La Bohème. I became obsessed with Italian Renaissance artists Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Michelangelo, and Raphael and read Machiavelli’s The Prince in an attempt to seem more sophisticated and worldly. It was during that time that my grandparents brought the signature red tin of the quintessential Lazzaroni Amaretti di Saronno when they came to visit. Each delicate, almond-laced piece was individually wrapped in tissue; a treasure to be revered. 

So when the opportunity to review Italy’s popular opera-singing trio, Il Volo’s new release “We Are In Love,” I jumped at the chance! The group appeared on NBC’s Christmas Tree Lighting Live at Rockefeller Center on November 28th and sang “Jingle Bell Rock.” That same teenage feeling of erudition came over me as a listened to the dulcet melodies of teen tenors, Piero Barone, Ignazio Boschetto and Gianluca Ginoble. Their covers of Aerosmith’s “I Don’t Want to Miss A Thing” and U2’s “Beautiful Day” are exceptional, but my favorite song on the album is “I Bring You To My Senses.” The CD also includes guest appearances by Placido Domingo and Eros Ramazzotti. This wonderfully soothing and comforting music will be the perfect addition to your holiday music collection.

Inspired by the threesome’s melodic tones, I endeavored to make amaretti cookies to achieve the whole Italian experience. I was thrilled to find almond flour at Trader Joe’s and decided it was destino. 

• 2 ½ cups of almond flour (or 3 cups almonds), finely ground
• 1 ¼ cup of baker's sugar (superfine sugar)
• Pinch of salt
• 3 egg whites
• ½ teaspoon of vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon of almond extract
• Extra sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 300°F and line baking sheets with parchment paper. In a food processor, combine almond flour and sugar. Add the vanilla and almond extract and pulse for a few more seconds. Add the egg whites, one at a time, and continue to process until the dough is smooth.

Place teaspoons of the dough on the parchment paper and dust with sugar. A small ice cream/cookie scoop or melon baller works well for this task.  Bake cookies for 24-30 minutes or until golden brown. You can underbake them a bit if you prefer them to be chewy. If that's your preference, bake them for about 20-24 minutes.

Cool completely before serving. They will be slightly chewy at first, but they will be get crispier as a day or two goes by. You can wrap them in tissue paper for an authentic touch and store them  in a cool, dry place.

In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received a complimentary copy of the CD from representatives of Passionate Digital in exchange for this post and giveaway. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers.