Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Hot Deviled Turnovers

These little devils make a perfect nosh before and after trick or treating. They also can be made ahead and frozen and then reheated on a busy evening like Halloween (or anytime you get a devilish craving.)

Each year, for as long as we can remember, our neighbors Margarette and David have hosted an open house the Sunday before Christmas. The entire neighborhood stops by for warm apple cider and a buffet of sweet and savory bites. The one treat we always look forward to are Margarette’s little deviled ham turnovers, so after many years I finally asked for the recipe. I am so glad I did because not only are the ham tartlets wonderful, Margarette’s pastry dough is now my go-to recipe for pies and cookies!

For a novice baker, this is the most forgiving dough to work with. The cream cheese allows this pastry some elasticity, but still produces tender and flaky results.

  • ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • ½ cup cream cheese, room temperature
  • 1 cup flour, plus more for rolling out the dough
  • Pinch of salt

Process the butter and cream cheese together in a food processor, electric mixer, or by hand to thoroughly combine.
Add the flour and salt. Process just until combined and the dough holds together in a ball. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface. Divide into 2 pieces. Flatten into disks and wrap each in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.

If the dough is chilled overnight, take it out 15 minutes before rolling out.Rub flour all over a rolling pin. Working with one dough disk at a time, place the disk on a clean, well-floured surface. Applying some pressure with the rolling pin, roll gently from the center of the dough to the top and bottom edges.

Rotate the disk and roll to the top and bottom edges again. Re-flour the work surface and rolling pin, turn the dough over, and continue to roll the dough from the center out to the edges. Turn over and roll again, rotating the disk to ensure even rolling until the dough is about 12 inches in diameter, thin but not transparent. Using a biscuit cutter (or an empty aluminum can or juice glass), cut the dough into rounds for filling.

Devilish Filling:
  • ½ cup (or 4.25 oz. can) deviled ham
  • ½ teaspoon mayonnaise
  • ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • ½ teaspoon hot paprika
  • Pinch dry mustard

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a separate bowl, mix together deviled ham, mayonnaise, mustard and paprika and stir until well blended together. Place ½ to 1 teaspoon of filling on one side of each of the dough rounds cut above.

Moisten the edge of the pastry with a finger dipped in a little water, and then fold the empty half of the dough over the filling. Crimpthe edges together using the tines of a fork. Place on the prepared baking sheet. Refrigerate while you make the remaining turnovers, putting each one on the sheet as it is assembled.

Place a baking rack in the center of the oven. Brush each turnover with a little milk or egg white if desired. Bake on the center oven rack for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees F, and bake for about 20 more minutes, or until golden brown. For even browning, rotate the sheet from front to back halfway through baking.

Transfer the turnovers to a wire rack, and let them cool slightly. Serve while they’re still warm.

Freezing Instructions: Freeze unbaked turnovers on a baking sheet until they’re firm, then gently transfer them to a resealable freezer bag. Store them in the freezer for up to 1 month. To bake them from frozen, just add a few minutes to the baking time.


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Technique of the Week: Deviling

When the term “Devil” is used as a culinary term, it refers to dishes prepared with hot seasonings, usually mustard or cayenne pepper. The word derives from the connection between the devil and the excessive heat in netherworld in which he dwells.

In a nineteenth century sketchbook, Washington Irving used the word to describe a highly seasoned dish similar to curry. Deviled dishes were very popular throughout the nineteenth and into the twentieth centuries, especially for seafood preparations and some appetizers. Deviled crab and deviled eggs are still very popular applications of this culinary idiom.

Around 1868, the William Underwood Company (which was known originally for its mustard products, began experimenting with a new product created from ground ham blended with special seasonings. The process they dubbed "deviling," for cooking and preparing the ham, was new. Soon thereafter, the "Underwood devil" became synonymous with the processed ham product, and today the Underwood devil is the oldest existing trademark still in use in the United States.

Deviled Ham:
  • 1 pound smoked ham, 1" cubes
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup mustard (Creole mustard)
  • 1/2 cup onion, diced
  • 2 tablespoon hot sauce, to taste
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 teaspoons hot smoked paprika
  • ¼ teaspoon dry mustard (optional)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender, and pulse until the desired texture is achieved and all ingredients are well mixed.


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Thursday, October 25, 2012

Holiday Preview Stuffed French Toast

Yesterday morning before most folks had finished their first cup of coffee, seven stalwartly foodies were seated the Cook’s Warehouse indulging in a delicious repast at the Second Annual Blogger Breakfast hosted by owner Mary Moore; Matthew Hott, Manager of the Ansley Mall location; Wendy Allen, director of The Cook’s Warehouse Cooking School; and, Jim Brams, director of public relations.

Chef Jessica Harlan of the About.com Guide to Cooking Equipment  prepared amazing pumpkin-stuffed French toast and a fruit salad with a honey lime dressing and mint in the Miele teaching kitchen.  Chef Jessica is the author of several cookbooks including her most recent title, Tortillas to the Rescue: Scrumptious Snacks, Mouth-Watering Meals and Delicious Desserts - All Made with the Amazing Tortilla.

“When you're looking for something to serve for breakfast or brunch that is even more decadent than French toast, try serving stuffed French toast. It takes a little more preparation, but it's a great way to incorporate seasonal flavors into your meal to impress guests, or to use up a handful of leftover ingredients like fresh fruit or nuts. This recipe gives you the basic concept so that you can get creative with your own ingredients or use one of the variations included below. Pair your flavored stuffed French toast with a syrup or compote in the same flavor or one that complements it, for an even more impressive way to begin the day. Slightly stale, rather than fresh, bread is far better for this recipe as it will better soak up the egg batter.

The night before preparing this recipe, I like to spread the slices of bread out on a baking sheet and leave them sitting out on the counter, so that the slices are slightly hard and dry. If you don't have time, you can also put the slices on a baking sheet and put them in an oven on low heat (200°F) for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the surface of the bread feels a little dry but it hasn't yet started turning toasty.

  • 8 ounces cream cheese, softened
  • 1/3 cup pumpkin puree
  • ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
  • 1 loaf good, stale bread, sliced
  • 5 eggs
  • 2 cups milk, any kind
  • ½ cup pumpkin puree
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • Pinch salt
  • Butter, for griddle
  • 1 cup maple syrup
  • 1 cup chopped pecans (optional)

In a small bowl using of fork or a spatula, combine the cream cheese, the fruit or flavoring ingredients and the brown sugar, stirring and mashing until it forms a relatively smooth paste and the ingredients are well mixed. Spread the mixture generously on one piece of bread, and then press two pieces of bread together, with the filling facing in to make sandwiches. The filling layer should be thick enough so that it oozes out a little when the sandwich is squeezed. If the slices of bread are very large cut them in half.

Heat an electric griddle (Chef Jessica demonstrated one of TCW’s Hot Holiday Gifts for 2012 - the Cuisinart Griddler with Reversible Grill Plates: $99.99) or a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat, and preheat the oven to 200°F. In a large, shallow bowl, whisk the eggs. Whisk in the milk, ½ cup pumpkin puree, cinnamon, vanilla and salt.

Place two or three of the French toast "sandwiches" in the batter, turning them over with a tongs to let them evenly soak up the batter. Place a pat of butter on the griddle and use a plastic or silicone turning spatula to spread the butter to evenly coat the cooking surface. Using tongs, lift the French toast out of the batter, holding it over the bowl for a moment to let excess batter drip off.

Place the French toast on the griddle. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the underside is browned. Turn the French toast over and cook the other side another 4 to 5 minutes, until browned. Transfer the cooked French toast to a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven until you've cooked all of the pieces. For topping, mix together maple syrup and chopped pecans in a small saucepan. Heat over low heat until warm and serve in a gravy boat or syrup pitcher."

While we cleaned our plates of every morsel, store manager Matthew Hott proved why the Cook’s Warehouse is About.com’s 2012 Reader’s Choice for the Best Kitchenware Retailer as he demonstrated TCW’s “Hot Holiday Gifts for 2012.” Some highlights included:
  • The New Vitamix 750 series $649.99 (used to make smoothies of berries, cherries, pineapple and chard)
  • Le Creuset 5.5-quart round French oven in signature color - Truffle $265
  • Calphalon Accucore 10” skillet with lid $79.99
  • Zwilling (maker of Henckels knives) Spirit 8” non-stick fry pan  $39.99
  • Revolution Molecular Gastronomy Kits $59.99
  • VinOice Wine Chiller $29.99 Extra Chill rods $19.99 
  • Chef’n pinch pour cups $29.99 
  • Joseph Joseph garlic rocker $14.99
  • Lekue push pop mold $9.99
After breakfast, we said our goodbyes and we were invited to wander through the TCW flagship shop before it opened to the public. As we were leaving, we were all presented with another item from the “Hot Gifts” list, a Red Party Cup, indispensable for tailgating and holiday eggnog, as a reminder of a fun morning.




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Harvest Pumpkin Crème Brûlée

The French dessert known as crème brûlée is one of the most popular desserts in American culture. Widely available in restaurants around the country, this caramelized custard was once fit only for kings and queens. Of course any home cook with a set of ceramic ramekins and a hand torch can create this dessert in their own kitchen. This autumnal variation of the classic dessert is enhanced with warming spices that are freshly grated to maximize their flavor. A microplane grater makes fast work of grating whole spices.

Starting with fresh, high quality ingredients is crucial if you want perfect custard. Using the wrong ingredients or trying to rush each step will leave you with a watery, grainy dessert. You really do need to use heavy cream for this dish. While some recipes call for milk or half and half, these custards tend to be too soft and runny when cooked. Recipes that pair milk with extra egg yolks become rubbery and have a consistency more like flan. Double cream is the best choice, but it is not required. Egg yolks are the other key ingredient to create the perfect custard texture. You will need the yolks of five eggs for four servings; the recipe can be doubled or tripled. Look for fresh eggs and separate the yolks gently to avoid breaking them.* The final touch is a single, real vanilla bean. Vanilla extracts can`t provide the perfect flavor of a whole bean.

Once your ingredients are gathered, it is time to create your custard. You will need four ceramic ramekins and a large baking dish that is at least two inches deep and will sit inside the baking dish. This will become your bain marie (the French term for “water bath”), which is filled with hot water. This ensures the custard bakes slowly and evenly to maintain the proper texture and prevents the custard from curdling. The humidity from the steam that rises as the water heats helps keep the top of the custard from drying out and forming a crust.

1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 ½ teaspoon cinnamon, freshly ground
¼ teaspoon allspice, ground
½ teaspoon ginger, freshly grated
¾ teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
5 egg yolks
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons pumpkin puree
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon firmly-packed, light brown sugar
Plus 4 teaspoons granulated sugar

Begin by preheating an oven to 300°F. Bring a pot of water to a boil and keep hot in preparation for the bain marie.

Pour the cream into a small saucepan and whisk in the cinnamon, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. Scald the cream by set over medium-low heat and mixture until bubbles form around the edges of the pan and steam begins to rise from the surface, about 3 minutes. Stir the cream mixture regularly to avoid any scorching.  Take the pan off the heat and give it 15 minutes to cool. Adding the milk to the egg yolks before they are cooled may cook the yolks too fast. The vanilla bean should be removed at this point. (If you freeze it, you can use it for future batches of crème brûlée!)

In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, vanilla, salt, pumpkin puree, the 1/3 cup granulated sugar and the brown sugar until smooth and blended. Slowly pour in the cream mixture, stirring until blended. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl to remove any pumpkin fibers or larger bits of ginger and spices. Divide the mixture among four 8-oz. ramekins and place in a large baking pan. Add the boiling water to fill the pan halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil and bake until the custards are just set, about 45 minutes. The custards should wiggle some, but not slosh. The custards will continue to firm up as they cool.

Remove the ramekins from the water and transfer them to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (up to 3 days).

The crisp, brown sugar crust of a crème brûlée is what sets it apart from plain custards. Create the perfect crust by giving the ramekins an hour to warm up after refrigeration. Sprinkle about a teaspoon of sugar over the custards. Use a hand torch to carefully brown the sugar evenly. Move the flame continuously in small circles over the surface until the sugar melts and lightly browns; maintain a steady pace to avoid burnt or blackened spots. Once you achieve a crisp layer of sugar, serve immediately. The caramel crust will not last indefinitely; the moisture from the custard will eventually dissolve the sugar.

* Remember to reserve the egg whites (albumen) for other recipes such as meringue cookies, angel food cake, white cakes, or meringue for pies. Egg whites can be frozen until you are ready to use them. Raw egg whites do not suffer from freezing. When separating eggs, have an ice cube tray at the ready. Pour each egg white into a compartment of the tray. This will work for small to large eggs. Place the ice cube tray in the freezer and freeze the egg whites. When completely frozen, pop the egg whites out and transfer them to a zip-top freezer bag and return them to the freezer. Whenever you need one, just thaw as many cubes, representing one egg white each, as needed in the refrigerator and use. Egg whites will deliver full volume if they are at room temperature. So, once the egg white is completely thawed in the fridge, let it come to room temperature before whipping.


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Saturday, October 20, 2012

Morning Pause Cortado

There are few things better on a brisk Fall morning than the feel of a hot coffee mug cupped in your hands as the aromatic steam drifts upward to gently warm your nose. Dom and I have tried a wide range of coffee makers over the years: Krups, Cuisinart, Keurig, DeLonghi, and Breville… you get the idea. After years of trying a wide range of coffee makers we have determined that we are espresso drinkers. Opting for a cup-at-a-time machine rather than brewing a pot that goes half consumed each day.

Recently our friends at Gevalia Kaffe sent us a sample of their Espresso Roast ground coffee for us to try. An intense, full-bodied, dark roast blend made from East African, South American, and Central American beans, it makes a delicious cortado.

What is a cortado you ask? A cortado is an espresso drink with a small amount of warm milk added to reduce the acidity. The ratio of milk to coffee is between 1:1 and 1:2. The term cortado comes from the Spanish and Portuguese cortar which means “cut." It is popular in both Spain and Portugal, as well as throughout Latin America, where it is drunk in the afternoon. In Cuba, it is called a cortadito, and in Catalan it's known as a tallat.

Midway between a macchiato and a cappuccino, the cortado is simple and balanced; you taste the coffee and the milk. Its size, a mere 4 ounces, is perfect for a morning pause. Small enough to enjoy in one sitting before it gets too cold to drink.

½ cup espresso (2 shots)
¼ cup warm milk, preferably steamed

Using an espresso machine or pot, extract espresso directly into a coffee cup. Cut the espresso with warm milk and serve immediately. Add a spot more milk to reach your desired taste. The espresso can be diluted with milk to an one-to-one ratio, and still be called a cortado.


In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received complimentary samples from Gevalia Kaffe in exchange for this post. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers.


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Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Health Benefits of Coffee Smoothie

Coffee has been used for centuries to provide energy and keep workers awake on long shifts. Many people drink it just for the flavor, while others rely on it to get through the day. Recent research into the compounds found in the simple coffee bean has revealed a number of health benefits. While people with certain conditions should avoid acidic drinks with caffeine, most people will find a number of benefits by drinking a cup or two a day. Learning about these health benefits can help you feel better about a morning routine that involves a steaming cup of coffee.

Type 2 Diabetes:
Studies have shown an interesting link between coffee consumption and lowered rates of type 2 diabetes. While there is little research proving the connection, there is a strong correlation. Researchers believe that the antioxidants found in coffee provide this extra layer of protection for drinkers. This is supported by the fact that both caffeinated and decaffeinated coffee were connected to a 7% drop in diabetes development. Drinkers who indulged in up to seven cups a day saw a 35% drop in the likeliness of having diabetes, while four to five cups provides protection of up to 28%.

Stroke and Heart Attacks:
The caffeine or other compounds found in coffee may have effects on the brain and heart. Adults drinking one to two cups of coffee per day were hospitalized for irregular heartbeat about 20% less than patients who don`t drink coffee. Regular episodes of irregular heartbeats can indicate an upcoming heart attack. One study also found a 25% drop in strokes among women drinking at least two cups of coffee per day.

Parkinson`s Disease:
The link between lowered chances of Parkinson`s disease and coffee consumption has been documented for years. Regular consumption of caffeinated coffee may protect the brain, but the exact mechanism is unknown. Some recent studies also show protection against Alzheimer`s disease and dementia. Researchers followed nearly 1,500 people for more than 20 years. The patients drinking at least three cups per day were 65% less likely to develop one of these issues.

Brewing Tips:
Coffee will only benefit your health if you drink it regularly. If you avoid the drink because it tastes bitter, try brewing it the right way for a more palatable beverage. Drip coffee makers have a hard time properly extracting all of the compounds from coffee grounds if the water isn`t hot enough. Buy an inexpensive candy thermometer and check the temperature of the water as it runs through the coffee machine without coffee in it. If it isn`t between 195 and 205 degrees Fahrenheit, you can`t brew coffee that tastes good with that device.

Use bottled water or clean and chlorine-free tap water, but avoid distilled water. The water should be free of flavors or odors if you want a tasty cup of coffee. Store the grounds in the freezer. Seal your coffee in an airtight container and freeze it to preserve the volatile oils that produce complex and exciting flavors.

You don`t have to wait until tomorrow morning for a steaming cup to start the day.  Try this simple coffee smoothie for a quick afternoon pick-me-up.

Coffee Smoothie
2 ripe bananas
2 cups of freshly made coffee
2 teaspoons of sugar, honey or sugar-free sweetener
1/2 cup milk or plain yogurt
1 scoop of protein powder or whey (optional)
A handful of ice


Blend the ingredients in a blender until the banana is smooth and the ice is chopped into small pieces. Any frozen or fresh fruits can be added to create custom flavors. The protein powder or whey makes this an ideal breakfast smoothie.



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Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Technique of the Week: Espressing

The term “espress” is derived from the Italian word for “express” since espresso is made expressly for and served immediately to the customer. As described by Italian food chemist Ernesto Illy, “The distinguishing sensory characteristics of Italian espresso include a rich body, a full fine aroma, and equilibrated bittersweet taste with an acidic note, and a pleasant lingering after-taste, exempt from unpleasant flavor defects."

Espresso is a concentrated coffee beverage of 2.5 ounces or less most often served in a demitasse cup. It is made on a specialized machine that forces hot water through finely ground coffee beans that have been compacted (tamped). It takes approximately 20-30 seconds to percolate the water through the tamped beans. Achieving a good shot of espresso is dependent on several key factors: the quality of the beans which should be dark roasted and finely ground; consistent tamping pressure; clean, preheated brewing equipment; and, good quality filtered water.


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Thursday, October 11, 2012

Love Thy Neighbor’s Peruvian Aji Pepper Sauce

We have lived in the same neighborhood for the last 22 years. When we bought our house, we never imagined we would live in the neighborhood for this long, but time flies when you are having fun. With such great neighbors it would be very difficult to move anyway.

We have seen many neighbors come and go and have met some delightfully interesting people like the United States Ambassador to Côte d'Ivoire (next door), the Hasidic Rebbe (two doors down), Croatian immigrants (three doors down), and the German airline executive (across the street). We all live harmoniously regardless of race, religion, ethnicity or any other life choices.

If you had told us that living just a few miles from downtown Atlanta could feel like small town living, we would have laughed out loud. However, we have come to enjoy all the comforts of small-town-living with the convenience of big-city life. The area hardware store still lets you run a tab, the pharmacist at the local CVS Pharmacy knows you by name and when a tree falls through a neighbor’s house in the middle of the night, everyone on the street shows up to help.

Weekends in the ‘hood begin Friday evening when the sidewalks are filled with tykes on bikes, chatting parents, toddlers toddling and playful puppies. On Saturdays, there are pick up football games, games of chase and hide-and-seek, and on the rare occasion when it snows, tobogganing down driveways. The day often culminates in drinks on a neighbor’s deck or a potluck cookout. The menus for these potluck suppers are as diverse and intriguing as the individuals making the dishes from Pam’s yia-yia’s orzo salad to Margarette’s hot deviled turnovers.

At the most recent gathering, we were treated to mango-marinated ribs and a potato dish with an amazing hot cheese sauce (a specialty of the host’s South American stepmother). We were thrilled to have another recipe to add to our multifarious community arsenal.

Papa a la Huancaina
  • 6 potatoes, boiled
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cups feta
  • 3 tablespoons Aji Amarillo pepper paste*
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • ½ cup evaporated milk
  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • Salt and pepper

Bring a large stock pot of water to a boil and cook potatoes until fork tender. Drain potatoes and set aside. Reserve a cup or two of the boiling water and use this to rinse the finely diced onions for a minute or two to lightly blanch.

Mash together cheese and hot peppers and place in a food processor. Add evaporated milk and lemon juice, and pulse. Pour in olive oil a little at a time like you would do when making mayonnaise. Lastly, add onion and pulse until the sauce is an even deep yellow/orange. Add more evaporated milk to reach the desired consistency and then season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cut the boiled potatoes into ½” cubes and place in a serving bowl. Cover potatoes with the Aji pepper sauce. Traditional Peruvian garnishes are hard-boiled eggs and black olives. Serve warm and watch your neighbors devour them!

* Native to Peru and fundamental to Peruvian cooking, aji amarillo is a hot chili pepper, in the range of 40,000-50,000 Scoville units (a jalapeño is 2,500 Scoville units). It's easiest to find in paste form, but also available fresh, dried, canned or ground. Chopped Aji peppers make a wonderful addition to peach, mango or tomato salsas. Aji Amarillo Pepper paste is available at many international food markets such as Atlanta's Buford Highway Farmer's Market or on Amazon.com.


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Thursday, October 4, 2012

Grilled Oysters with Chipotle Chermoula

If you have followed on our food adventures for any length of time it should be fairly clear that we have an eclectic interest in ingredients, cuisines (and music.) You will have also noticed that there are several ingredients that appear in blog posts more frequently than others.

There have been many variations on lamb, squash blossoms, and like any good Italian family, tomatoes. An example of another favorite in our house is oysters. Dom rarely visits the DeKalb Farmer’s Market without bringing home a bag of fresh oysters which are most often consumed raw with a drop of Tabasco or a simple Mignonette sauce which has hardly warranted numerous blog posts.

On a recent visit to the market Dom returned with a larger-than-usual quantity of the lumpy mollusks which were originally intended as an appetizer while several slabs of ribs smoked on the grill. However, they soon turned into an appetite quashing refection.

Dom placed 10 or so oysters on the top rack of the grill. Using some stunningly fresh cilantro that he just couldn't pass up at the market, and chipotle sauce originally purchased for the rib sauce, he concocted what has become our new favorite.  Thank goodness the next eight months all have the letter “R” in their names.

To Grill the Oysters:

Place the oysters on the hot grill so that they're resting on their deeply curved halves of their shells, this way their juices don't run. Make sure oysters do not overlap. Lay a wet rag towel over the oysters and cover the grill. Allow the oysters to cook until the oysters open, about 5 minutes. The oysters will pop open slightly (you can usually hear the "pop"). Once they are all open, remove them to a serving plate with tongs trying to keep the liquor inside.

When cool enough to handle, remove the top shells and loosen the oysters from the bottom shells. The subtle smoky flavor and natural saltiness of the brine in the oysters are delicious alone, but a drizzle of chermoula elevates them to the level of nirvana.

Chipotle Cilantro Chermoula
  • Juice of one lime
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon Tabasco Chipotle Pepper Sauce
  • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
  • 2 teaspoons olive oil
  • Kosher salt to taste


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Monday, October 1, 2012

Technique of the Week: Shucking

Shucking is a culinary term used to describe the removal of the outer shell or “shucks” from either corn or oysters. Interestingly the term is not used in relation to any other food items, and corn and oysters have very little else in common. While the term dates back to the late 17th century, no one knows exactly how it came to be used.

Removing the husks from corn is an easy process in which an ear of corn is grasped by its stem and the outer leaves are pulled from the top to the bottom. Once the cob with its kernels are exposed the stem and husks are broken off. Often these husks are dried for use in making traditional tamales. During the colonial era, husks were used to make dolls or other toys.

Oyster shucking, on the other hand, is a bit more difficult. You will need an oyster knife which has a short, stubby blade and a strong handle for easy gripping. Since you will need to exert a good deal of pressure to open the oyster shells, pay careful attention to the angle of the knife and the position of the mitt or towel holding the oyster. For extra protection, you should consider wearing a heavy-duty work glove on the hand holding the oyster.

Oyster shells are brittle and can splinter easily; if the shell splinters and the knife isn't angled so that is pointing down toward the cutting surface, you can lose control of the knife and cut yourself badly. Hold the oyster firmly on the cutting board to keep the oyster from sliding away.

Locate the hinge of the oyster and wrap the oyster in a towel placing the hinge side up. Working on a flat, secure cutting surface, place the tip of the knife on either side of the hinge. Using a good deal of pressure, push the knife into the hinge. Twist the knife from side to side in order to pry the shell open.

Once the knife has popped the hinge, pry the lid open wide enough to fit the top of your thumb inside. Slide the tip of the knife inside the oyster and slide it along the roof of the oyster at an angle to sever the muscle that connects the two shells, and then slice through the connective muscle trying not to pierce the oyster.

Next carefully slip the tip of the oyster knife underneath the body of the oyster into the muscle where the muscle meets the shell and slice through it. Because oyster shells are surprisingly fragile, there are often small fragments that break off during shucking. These little bits of shell are very unappetizing, so scrape them away again being careful not to pierce the oyster in the process. At this point the oyster has been dislodged from the shell completely and can be served or cooked.

The oyster should be plump and floating in liquid. This liquid (referred to as liquor) is the natural juice from the oyster and is very desirable to oyster connoisseurs. If you are planning to serve the oysters on the half shell but accidently damaged it in the shucking process, gently turn it over. The flip-side of the oyster may be better looking than the damaged top.

If you are planning to cook them, they can be kept alive until you are ready to use them by wrapping them in a cool, moist towel and storing them in a refrigerator. Shucked oysters can be stored this way for up to two days.



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