Technique of the Week: Infusing

Mint Tea

In cooking terms, infusing is the simple chemical process by which a liquid is permeated with the flavor of another ingredient, usually botanic components like herbs, berries, fruit or even flowers. The botanicals release their natural oils and essence in water, vinegar, oil or alcohol.

The liquid to be infused is typically boiled and then poured over the botanic, which is then allowed to steep in the liquid for a period of time. The liquid is then strained (or the herbs otherwise removed from the liquid) before use. A common example of an infusion is tea; lemon, chamomile, ginger and a great many other plants are used in infusions with water to create herbal remedies.

Plants with desirable flavors can also be steeped in olive oil or vinegar and used to add flavor to salads or used in cooking. Fruits and herbs can be steeped in alcohol to create delicious infusions for use in specialty cocktails. One popular alcohol infusion involves soaking crisped bacon in bourbon to create “Bacon Bourbon.”

Sugar can be infused with natural flavors as well. Sugar can be easily infused with vanilla by simply adding a vanilla bean to a jar of sugar and allowing it to sit until the sugar absorbs the aroma and flavor of the vanilla bean. Vanilla sugar is a delightful accompaniment to fresh fruit, coffee drinks and herbal tea infusions.

Sun-dried citrus salt and peels

Salt is another good candidate for infusion. We infuse salt with citrus by peeling the zest from lemons, limes and or oranges and adding it to kosher salt. We place the salt and peels in the refrigerator for 2 days and then lay the salt and zest on a parchment lined baking sheet and allow the salt and peels to dry in the sun. The salt is then ready to use to add “brightness” to salads and seafood dishes or rim margarita glasses. The salted zest can be used as a substitute for preserved lemons or in recipes calling for citrus zest (reducing the salt in the recipe by a bit.)

Sausage, Peppers & Onions Worth Craving

Rarely a week goes by that sausage with sauteed peppers and onions doesn't grace our dinner table. Of all the different meals we cook, this dish is easily the most popular with our family and friends. Sausage and peppers seems to be one of those quintessentially Italian dishes that everyone craves. For this reason, it remains a perennial favorite at most ball parks throughout the country.

Perhaps it is the vibrant colors, rustic simplicity, and rich, lusty flavors that together speak to something primal in the Italian character and cuisine. The appeal of the dish probably lies in the simple combination of the spices of good Italian sausages, the sweetness of caramelized peppers and onions, and the subtle tang of tomatoes. What ever the reason, it will remain a mainstay of our repertoire.

• 6 links Italian sausage (we like the Hot variety)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 bell peppers (green, red or yellow), sliced
• 2 tomatoes, roughly diced OR 1 14.5-oz. can of (Red Gold*) petite diced tomatoes
• ½ teaspoon dried oregano

Place the sausage in a large skillet over medium heat, and brown on all sides. Remove from the skillet and set aside.  Add olive oil to the drippings in the skillet and stir in the onion and garlic, and then cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Mix in bell peppers, tomatoes and oregano and continue to cook and stir until peppers and onions are tender.

Return sausage to skillet with the vegetables. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer 15 minutes, or until sausage is heated through. Add a little water as needed to keep moist and not overcook vegetables.

Transfer to a serving platter and serve along with crusty french-style bread (in case anyone wants to turn theirs into a hoagie!

*The kind folks at Red Gold® sent us a variety pack of 6 cans of their tomatoes for us to sample which we used in this recipe. As you can see from the picture they added a gorgeous red color to the dish and a tangy sweetness that would stand up to any San Marzano tomato product on the market.

Technique of the Week: Marinating

Marinating is the technique of soaking food, especially meats, in a seasoned liquid before cooking. Like brining, it is commonly used to flavor foods and to tenderize tougher cuts of meat. The liquid used is a 'marinade' is often acidic with ingredients such as vinegar, lemon juice, or wine or an enzymatic such as pineapple or papaya juices. The acidic ingredient softens the food, allowing it to absorb the flavors of the sauce.

Along with an acidic liquid, a marinade often contains oils, herbs, and spices to further flavor the food items. Marinating works on all kinds of meat, fish, tofu and even vegetables. Different cuisines utilize varying marinades. For example, yogurt-based marinades with a mixture of spices are used in Middle-Eastern dishes and a teriyaki marinade is common for Asian dishes.

Generally speaking, most meats (beef, pork and chicken) should be marinated for at least 2 hours (up to 24 hours), while fish should only be marinated for 30 or so minutes before it starts to turn “mushy.”Foods should be marinated in the refrigerator, rather than at room temperature. Re-sealable plastic bags are the most convenient and safest vessels for marinating rather than bowls or other containers. They cut down on cleanup and allow you to evenly distribute the marinade. You should not use an aluminum container or foil for marinating because a chemical reaction could spoil the food.

If you plan to use your marinade as a finishing sauce or for basting, it should be boiled for several minutes before using to kill any bacteria from the raw meat or vegetables. You should ever reuse the marinade for another recipe or meal.

Mint Marinade for Lamb:

¼ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ cup fresh mint leaves, cleaned

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Combine all items in food processor and pulse several times until all ingredients are well chopped and combined. Pour marinade over lamb in a plastic bag and mix well to ensure that all meat is well coated. Allow to sit in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours before cooking. Periodically “massage” the bag to re-distribute marinade over the meat.

When ready to cook, remove meat from bag and cook to preferred doneness and toss marinating bag away.

National Soup Month Seafood Chowder

Soup is one of the oldest forms of food right up there with bread.  Although it was not until the invention of waterproof containers, about 9,000 years ago, that soup came into existence, the fact that an entire month is devoted to celebrating soup is a testament to its continued universal popularity.

Soup can be dated back to about 6,000 B.C. and was first made of hippopotamus. Soup is made by combining ingredients, such as meat, vegetables or beans in stock or hot water, until the flavor is extracted, forming a liquid meal. There are lots of variations on the basic theme of soup, each offering a wide range of nutritional benefits.

Soup, first known as "sop," was originally a piece of bread served with some type of broth. People used to pour sop over a piece of bread or over broken off chunks of bread in a platter allowing it to soak up all the broth and then they would eat it.  As time went by sop was placed in deeper bowls and the liquid became the focal point instead of the bread. In modern day, the word sop is used to define the act of sopping up food. 

Every country in the world has soup recipes and family traditions from long ago so it comes as no surprise that soup is a favorite in most households. We have all been nursed back to health with chicken noodle soup, warmed on a frigid day by a hot bowl of tomato soup with grilled cheese sandwiches and celebrated holidays with green bean casserole with cream of mushroom soup.

New England-style chowder is a favorite in our family with the ingredients varying depending on what is fresh at the market and what we have on hand.  This is the basic formula, but don’t be afraid to experiment to create a chowder that will become your own family recipe to be handed down to the next generation.

• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• ¼ lb. country ham or bacon, cut into 1/8-inch cubes
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 cup celery, chopped
• 6 cups fish or vegetable stock
• 4 cups russet potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 lb. (30 count) shrimp, shelled and deveined
• 1 lb. clams (and juice), chopped
• 1 lb. cod, skin and bones removed, cut into bite-sized pieces
• ½ cup heavy cream
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Kosher salt and ground white pepper
• Old Bay seasoning (optional)
• Fresh parsley, chopped for garnish (optional)

Heat a medium skillet over low heat adding enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add ham and cook for 5 minutes and then add onion and celery and cook, stirring, until soft.

In a separate stock pot, bring stock and bay leaves to a simmer. Add diced potatoes and cook for about 15-20 minutes, until just tender. Add ham and vegetable mixture to the stock pot and stir to mix well. Then add shrimp, clams, and fish, and simmer for 5 more minutes. Add cream and season chowder with cayenne, salt, and white pepper. Remove bay leaves and serve hot with parsley and Old Bay seasoning.

Technique of the Week: Stirring

Those of us that have been cooking for many years, “stir” our ingredients with little or no consideration for the actual act of stirring. In reality, there is more to it than just sticking a spoon in the bowl and wiggling it around a bit.

Stirring is the technique of mixing together ingredients of before or during cooking.  Stirring is a simple concept, but it does require that you know when and where to stir.

Before sitting down to write this post, I stumbled upon a very instructive little video on the à la carte cooking website. The video was made by Peter Hertzmann who is the author of Knife Skills Illustrated and an instructor at Sur La Table is titled “Stirring Conclusions.” According to Hertzmann, there are three main reasons to stir: to create a homogenous mixture; to evenly disperse temperature; and, to alter the viscosity of a liquid (thicker or thinner). These reasons may seem to be common sense, but many cooks stir only because the recipe tells them to without considering the reason.
   
When stirring, for example, you should always make sure that the utensil you’re stirring with touches the bottom and all corners of the pan. For thin liquids without any solids mixed in, stirring in the middle of the pot or pan may be adequate. You should select your stirring utensil on purpose rather than just grabbing the first thing at your fingertips. And, when a recipe says, “stir occasionally” or “stir frequently,” you should have a clear understanding of what the intended result is to ensure you are stirring properly.

Hertzmann’s video is broken down into chapters and answers all basic questions about stirring and has tips and tricks for even the most advanced ”stirrers.” So without further ado, CLICK HERE to view his video for your edification.

Conquering the Elusive Cavatelli

The art of cavatelli manufacture has evaded Dom for many years. He has fond memories of his Grandma’s handmade pasta: “She and my Aunt Mary would sit for hours drinking coffee and casually shaping and flicking the ‘cavatells’ into a huge pile on the kitchen table. Later all the family would show up to eat the delicious little nuggets of joy.” Several earlier attempts at making these at home failed miserably resulting rather in “little blobs of sadness.”

Dom received a cavatelli maker for his birthday. The metal device looks like a clunky can opener with wooden knobs. After scouring cookbooks to find the perfect recipe and a series of trials (and errors,) we got the proper consistency of dough and the correct technique with the apparatus. Lo and behold! – We had achieved cavatelli perfection.

If you do not have a handy-dandy mechanism for shaping your cavatelli, you can use a butter/gnocchi paddle, hair comb or even a putty knife along with a “smearing motion,” however, creating uniform macaroni in nearly impossible.

• 3-4 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 cups ricotta cheese
• 2 eggs
• pinch of salt
• Cake flour for dusting

Put 2 1/2 cups of the flour into a bowl and make a well in the middle. Add 2 eggs and the ricotta cheese and incorporate the flour into the eggs and cheese, and then knead the dough adding more flour as needed until dough is soft but not at all sticky.

Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest for at least 30 minutes (believe us, it makes a big difference.) Roll out on board dusted with flour and make long ropes. Add more flour to the board as needed.

Flatten ropes a bit before feeding them into the cavatelli maker. If they start to glob together rather than falling freely from the machine, then you will need to incorporate more flour into your dough. Another trick we learned is to place a teaspoon of flour on top of the cavatelli maker, so that a tad falls between the two wooden rollers with each turn of the crank.

If you are hand forming dough: cut into one-inch pieces, rolling them individually into “worms.” Then using a butter paddle or wide-toothed comb with your thumb“smear” each piece away from you rolling the pasta as you smear. Alternatively, you can use a flat surface (a plastic putty knife works best or butter knife) held at a 45-degree angle. Press on each “worm” of dough and “smear” the length of it.  You find that the motion causes the dough to curl up the edge of your implement.  Both of these techniques take practice!

Place finished cavatelli on a cookie sheet dusted with cake flour. As you fill up in the cookie sheets, place the whole pan in the freezer for about a half hour (until the pasta is completely frozen and does not stick together.) Then you can easily transfer the frozen cavatelli to a freezer bag and refreeze until you are ready to use them.

To cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and then place frozen cavatelli in the water. They should float to the surface of the water when they are done. It is best to taste one or two before draining. Once drained, immediately add olive oil or pasta sauce to prevent them from sticking together. Serve in plentiful portions and watch them disappear!

Technique of the Week: Stewing

On a cold, damp day, few things are more pleasing than a rich and steaming bowl of stew. But, what exactly is “stew”? Stew is not only the name of a dish, but it is also its cooking method.

Stewing is the process of cooking ingredients slowly in a flavorful simmering liquid in a closed container which obviously requires a leak-proof vessel for cooking. Cooking by boiling has occurred for literally tens of thousands of years. In fact, primitive tribes are thought to have used conch or turtle shells to boil water. The development of pottery some 10,000 years ago was the impetus for the development of several dishes named for the container used to prepare them including (but not limited to) tagines, casseroles, and stews. The technique was refined over the years with references to more modern stews found throughout recorded history, from the lentil stew in the Biblical story of Cain and Abel to Hungarian Goulash with paprika in the 1700’s and Lord Byron’s reference to Irish Stew in “The Devil’s Drive” in 1814.

Types of stews exist all over the world which are referred to by a variety of names: French Cassoulet, Italian Cioppino, Beef Bourguignon, Pot au Feu, Kentucky’s burgoo, Louisiana’s gumbo, and even Chili con Carne. While stewing is easily confused with braising, there are a few distinctions between the two. In a stew, the meat is generally cut into smaller pieces rather than left whole and in a braise, the liquid might only come halfway up the sides of the meat whereas the meat is immersed in cooking liquid when stewed.

The best cuts of meat for stewing are the toughest cuts. Prime stewing candidates include shank, brisket, chuck, oxtail and beef round. Stewing meats are not limited to beef, though. Irish stew shines because of lamb or mutton, dark meat chicken is the base for Coq au Vin, fleshy fish stars in Caldeirada de Peixe and French Ratatouille is just stewed vegetables.

The general method of preparing a stew is to sear meat on all sides in a little oil in a Dutch oven (or whatever pan you’ll be stewing in) until deep brown and then setting the meat aside. In the same pan, chopped mirepoix (onions, carrots and celery) or trinity (onions, celery and green pepper) are cooked until golden brown. Dried herbs and spices are added at this point. The pan is deglazed with liquid (stock, water, wine, beer, etc.) The meat is added back to the pan and liquid is added to cover the meat, and bring it to a simmer. Frequently, a starchy ingredient is added to thicken the stew before serving. Examples of these include potatoes, beans, corn, and rice, or in the case of gumbo and burgoo, fresh cut okra.

Tips and Tricks:

• Make sure you cut your items to the same size to ensure even cooking. If you are cooking small pieces of meat as well as vegetables, make sure they will all cook at the same time, which may mean the vegetables are cut to a larger size than the meat.
• Searing the meat and vegetables and deglazing the pan are recommended as it will provide more flavor. 
• Use a heavy gauge stockpot or cast iron pan with a tight cover.
• Cooking temperatures are very low with stewing, usually keeping the liquid at a simmer (about 180-200°F).
• The best test for doneness is using a fork to pull the meat or vegetables apart, if it comes apart easily with little resistance, it’s done.
• Use at least one acidic liquid when stewing. Tomatoes, vinegar or wine help break down connective tissue and tenderize tougher meats.
• Season your liquid with salt at the end ONLY. The liquid will reduce and can lead to a very high concentration of salt at the end.

Wakey Wakey Eggie Weggie

Perhaps you have heard the expression “Wakey, wakey  - rise and shine." The expression began as a reveille for British “squadies” to rise and shine (as in shine their boots before roll call.) It was later cheerily broadcast at Butlins’ UK Holiday Camps during the 1960’s to get vacationers up in the mornings. A variation of the saying "wakey, wakey eggs and bakey," was popularized by Michael Madsen in the 2004 movie "Kill Bill: Volume 2." We use this phrase quite often in the Romeo house to beckon one another to the breakfast table.

Several years ago Dom came home from a trip where he had enjoyed a perfect plate of Eggs Benedict. He started out to duplicate the dish at home, but none of us truly like Canadian bacon. We did, however, have smoked salmon in the fridge (which would normally accompany bagels and cream cheese with finely sliced shallot and tomato.) Being a huge fan of Ernest Hemingway and of smoked salmon, Dom replaced the Canadian bacon in the recipe with smoked salmon to make Eggs Hemingway.  Another adaptation was the use of a fried egg (or “eggiweg” in the UK vernacular) prepared sunny-side-up rather than poached eggs (fried eggs are faster and easier) which lead to the creation of the Romeo “eggie-weggie!” Needless to say, our morning wake-up call has been changed to reflect this addition to our family repertoire!

Homemade Hollandaise

• 4 egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted (1 stick)
• Pinch cayenne
• Pinch salt

Whisk the egg yolks and lemon juice together in a stainless steel bowl until the mixture is thick and has doubled in volume. Place the bowl over a saucepan containing barely simmering water (you can use a double boiler if you have one,) the water should not touch the bottom of the bowl. Continue to whip egg mixture rapidly; an immersion blender works beautifully for this task! Be careful not to let the eggs get too hot or they will scramble. Slowly drizzle in the melted butter and continue to whisk until the sauce is thickened and again doubled. Remove from the heat and whisk in cayenne and salt. Cover and place in a warm spot until ready to use for the eggs benedict. The sauce will continue to thicken as it cools. If the sauce gets too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water before serving.

Eggs Hemingway

• 4 English muffins, split and toasted
• 8 slices of smoked salmon
• Butter for pan
• 8 eggs
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• Hollandaise sauce
• Fresh chopped chives or scallions (optional)

Gently break eggs into a non-stick pan coated with butter and cook on medium heat until whites are set but yolks are still translucent. You may need to work in batches.

To assemble the eggie weggies, lay a slice of smoked salmon on top of each toasted muffin half, followed by a sunny-side-up egg. Season with salt and pepper and then spoon hollandaise sauce over the eggs. Garnish the plates with chopped chives or scallions. Lastly, prepare your taste buds for a flavor sensation you won’t soon forget!

Technique of the Week: Whipping

Whipping is the process of beating an ingredient vigorously to incorporate air, which makes the ingredient foamy. Whipping transforms heavy cream into whipped cream. Egg whites when whipped form stiff peaks which can be used to make meringue for pies, pavlova, or nougats. Whipped egg whites are also used in mousses, soufflés, and angel food cake. Potatoes and squash are also good candidates for whipping.

One item we use frequently in our house is whipped cream cheese. While it is an obvious accompaniment to bagels, we love it on banana bread! Interestingly, whipped cream cheese is more expensive than regular cream cheese (especially if you prefer the flavored varieties) even though what you are paying for is added air. You can save up to 60% by making your own and the flavor possibilities are endless…

Whipped Cream Cheese
1 - 8 oz. block of cream cheese (or Neufchatel)
3 - 4 tablespoons of milk

Allow cream cheese to come to room temperature. Place cream cheese and milk in a food processor or blender and blitz for a few seconds until smooth and “fluffy.”

Flavor Variations (added to the above ingredients):

• Fruit - add 3 tablespoons of your favorite jam or preserves;
• Maple Nut - omit milk and add 3 tablespoons maple syrup and chopped nuts of your choice;
• Cinnamon - add 3 tablespoons of brown sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon;
• Hot pepper - add 1 fresh jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped, 2 tablespoons chopped green onions or chives, and a pinch of salt;

• Herb - add 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley (or herb of choice,) 1 tablespoon chopped green onions and 1/2 teaspoon paprika;
• Roasted Red Pepper - add 1 red bell pepper, roasted, seeded and peeled and ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese;
• Smoked Salmon {shown above and at left} - add 3 oz. smoked salmon or lox bits an (optionally) 2 tablespoons chopped red onion and 1 teaspoon capers.