Technique of the Week: Toasting

It only seems appropriate that this we post this on New Year's Eve. Even though toast is found on our table at breakfast, lunch or dinner, toast is a typically considered to be a breakfast food. Sliced bread is browned by exposure to dry heat ("toasted"). This browning reaction is a form of the Maillard reaction. Toasting warms the bread, making it more pleasant to eat for some, allowing for butter to melt when placed on the surface, and makes it crisp such that it holds toppings more securely.

Toasting is also a common method of making stale bread palatable. Toast is often served with butter, cheese, marmalade, or any number of other toppings, thereby making an open-faced sandwich. There are several ways to make toast. You can make toast is a typical household toaster which is best for fewer slices, but to make more you can lay the slices of bread out on a cookie sheet and place in a 350 degree oven for 5-10 minutes each side. The thickness of the bread determines how long it should bake. Check frequently to ensure desired doneness. You can also broil the bread, but this is a bit tricky and is best done for open faced sandwiches or to melt ingredients that are being served on the toast. You can toast bread in a pan on the stove. First melt ½ teaspoon of butter in the pan and coat bottom of pan, then place bread slice in the pan. After the first side is toasted, add another ½ teaspoon of butter to the pan and coat then brown the other side. Lastly, you can grill the bread. Lightly coat bread slices with olive oil and place on the grill, turning constantly until desired color is achieved.

The word “toast" is also used to describe the tradition of honoring a person or occasion with a drink. Europeans toast and clink glasses whenever possible, and we're seeing it more and more in America. From simple clinking of glasses with a friend to clinking all around in a crowd, cheery shouts of “Salud,” “Cin Cin,” “Skoal” and “Proost” abound. It is always good manners to look the holder of the other glass directly in the eye before you take a sip. More formal toasting is generally made by the host to an honored guest, but recently it has been extended to the host by a guest. What is said in a toast matters less than how it is said. For a toast to sound as if it just came to you in an affectionate flash, it will have to be prepared ahead of time. Know your message, how to open, and how to close. A quote is always nice. Be cheery, to the point, short and sweet. Lastly, mean what you say! If a toast isn't sincere, everyone will know it.

Festive Jamaican Rum Punch

Most of you know that we adulate the DeKalb Farmer’s Market. The huge market opened its 140,000-square-foot Decatur location just a few months before Dom and I met, and it was one of first places we went together when we were dating. As we have reiterated in other posts, we truly enjoy trying and experimenting with new and exotic ingredients and the market offers plenty of opportunities for exploration.

So when Dom brought home a mysterious bag of “sorrel flowers,” I was hardly surprised. A little research revealed that they were actually the dried sepals and calyxes of the roselle plant, a species of Hibiscus native to the tropics. They are prepared by boiling in water until the water turns red and adding sugar.  In Jamaica, the tea is also infused with ginger and clove then mixed with rum to make a festive punch which is very popular at Christmas time. Other variations made with fresh fruits, juices or extracts are used to make aguas frescas commonly consumed in Mexico, Central and South America.

• 1½ cups roselle calyxes 
• 2” piece fresh gingerroot, grated
• 3 whole cloves
• 6 cups water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 ½ cups light or amber rum
• 8 teaspoons marmalade
• lime slices for garnish

Comb through the flower calyxes to remove any that are damaged or spoiled. In a heatproof bowl, combine the calyxes, ginger, and cloves and pour 5 cups of boiling water over them. Let the mixture steep for 4 hours (or overnight).

While the mixture is steeping, make a simple syrup by bringing the remaining cup of water and the sugar to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved and let the syrup cool.
Strain the roselle liquid into a pitcher, discarding the solids, and stir in the simple syrup.

To serve, place 1 teaspoon of marmalade, 1 ½ ounces of rum, and ¾ cup of roselle tea in a 12-ounce glass and stir. Add crushed ice to fill and garnish the punch with the lime slices.

Lost and Found Clothespin Cookies

Growing up in the South, I had never heard of a cookie table. While the concept is easy enough to understand, the exact meaning of the term is harder to grasp until you come face to face with the cookie table itself. With acres of baked treats, it is truly a wonder to behold. These magnificent collections of delicacies are most often seen at weddings, but can also be found at anniversary celebrations, graduations, baptisms and funeral receptions.

Growing up in Youngstown, Ohio where the custom is said to have originated, Dom recalls cookie tables at family weddings that took all day to set up. Thousands of cookies all carefully arranged on platters each one more extravagant than the next. The custom dates back to the immigrant families (Italian, Eastern Europeans and Greeks) who worked in the steel mills and could not afford a wedding cake.

While the bride’s (extended; sometimes very) family does most of the baking, everyone is welcome to contribute. The obvious favorite is the buttery Italian wedding cookie, dusted with powdered sugar followed closely by pizzelles, flat wafers, round and lacy like a snowflake, with a whisper of anise or almond. Then there are the clothespin cookies (also called ladylocks because of their beautiful, spiral shape), flaky pastry horns formed by wrapping pastry dough around a wooden clothespin which is removed after baking and filled with a silky cream filling.

Each Christmas, Dom’s Aunt Phyll would make clothespin cookies which were reputed to be light as a feather with a crisp shell that would explode and then disappear to reveal a fluffy crème-filled center. Unfortunately, Aunt Phyll’s recipe was lost, but after many years of searching and experimenting, we think we have found a reasonable replacement for the missing heirloom recipe.

For the dough:

• 2 cups butter
• 3 egg yolks
• 1 cup sour cream
• 4 cups flour
• ¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 425 Degrees F. Mix butter and flour together in a large bowl. Add eggs and sour cream, and then beat until smooth. Chill the dough overnight. Roll the dough on floured board and using a pizza cutter, cut into 1-inch wide and 6-inch long strips. Wrap the dough onto clothespins or rods and bake for 10 to 12 minutes; the crust should be light brown. Let cool on a rack until completely cooled. Gently remove the tubes from the clothespins and set aside.

For the filling:

• 1 cup butter
• 2 cup powdered sugar
• 1 cup marshmallow crème
• 1 teaspoon vanilla

The filling can be made while the cookies are cooling. Cream together butter and sugar with an electric mixer until fluffy. Blend in marshmallow crème (also known as "Italian meringue") and vanilla until completely combined. Scoop the filling into a Ziploc bag or pastry bag and refrigerate until cookies are cooled and ready to be filled. Chilling the filling before use makes it easier to handle.

Once the cookies and filling have cooled, snip of the end of the Ziploc bag and insert into one end of the first cookie and gently squeeze filling into the tube. Once filled, set aside and fill each of the remaining cookies. If you are not serving them immediately, store them in the refrigerator and take out about 30 minutes before serving. Arrange them on a serving platter and dust with confectioner’s sugar.

Hot Holiday Gin Toddy

The weather in the South has finally turned colder, making it feel like it really is December and the season for celebrating the holidays with friends and family. With everyone’s busy schedules it can be difficult to find a time when everyone can get together. And, let’s face it, while it is always wonderful to see everyone at holiday parties, the usual party fare can get a bit tiresome. If you have seen one cheese log, you've seen them all, right? So why not try something a bit different this year?  Perhaps an after-dinner party with desserts and warm drinks with everyone gathering around a fireplace?

Now what to serve?

Normally, we would start the evening with cocktails; a favorite being gin and tonic. So in an “Ah-Ha” moment, we decided on “Gin Toddies” a sophisticated spin on the seasonal Hot Toddy to go along with artisanal cheeses and some homemade pizzelles, torrones and amaretti.

Hot Gin Toddy:

• 1 teaspoon sugar
• ½ cup boiling water
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 ½ oz. favorite brand of gin

Put a teaspoon of sugar in a heat proof glass or mug and add boiling water. Stir briefly to dissolve sugar and then add gin and lemon juice. Stir to combine and garnish drinks with your choice of cinnamon sticks, cloves, cardamom pods, star anise, or lemon slices.

Mix, drink, repeat! Happy Holidays!!

We Are in Love with Amaretti Cookies

My first introduction to opera came as a teenager when all things foreign appeared chic and romantic (especially if they were Italian). Even though I did not speak Italian, in my teenage angst, I could understand every poignant aria of La Bohème. I became obsessed with Italian Renaissance artists Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Michelangelo, and Raphael and read Machiavelli’s The Prince in an attempt to seem more sophisticated and worldly. It was during that time that my grandparents brought the signature red tin of the quintessential Lazzaroni Amaretti di Saronno when they came to visit. Each delicate, almond-laced piece was individually wrapped in tissue; a treasure to be revered. 

So when the opportunity to review Italy’s popular opera-singing trio, Il Volo’s new release “We Are In Love,” I jumped at the chance! The group appeared on NBC’s Christmas Tree Lighting Live at Rockefeller Center on November 28th and sang “Jingle Bell Rock.” That same teenage feeling of erudition came over me as a listened to the dulcet melodies of teen tenors, Piero Barone, Ignazio Boschetto and Gianluca Ginoble. Their covers of Aerosmith’s “I Don’t Want to Miss A Thing” and U2’s “Beautiful Day” are exceptional, but my favorite song on the album is “I Bring You To My Senses.” The CD also includes guest appearances by Placido Domingo and Eros Ramazzotti. This wonderfully soothing and comforting music will be the perfect addition to your holiday music collection.

Inspired by the threesome’s melodic tones, I endeavored to make amaretti cookies to achieve the whole Italian experience. I was thrilled to find almond flour at Trader Joe’s and decided it was destino. 

• 2 ½ cups of almond flour (or 3 cups almonds), finely ground
• 1 ¼ cup of baker's sugar (superfine sugar)
• Pinch of salt
• 3 egg whites
• ½ teaspoon of vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon of almond extract
• Extra sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 300°F and line baking sheets with parchment paper. In a food processor, combine almond flour and sugar. Add the vanilla and almond extract and pulse for a few more seconds. Add the egg whites, one at a time, and continue to process until the dough is smooth.

Place teaspoons of the dough on the parchment paper and dust with sugar. A small ice cream/cookie scoop or melon baller works well for this task.  Bake cookies for 24-30 minutes or until golden brown. You can underbake them a bit if you prefer them to be chewy. If that's your preference, bake them for about 20-24 minutes.

Cool completely before serving. They will be slightly chewy at first, but they will be get crispier as a day or two goes by. You can wrap them in tissue paper for an authentic touch and store them  in a cool, dry place.

In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received a complimentary copy of the CD from representatives of Passionate Digital in exchange for this post and giveaway. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers.

Chill-Chasing Panera Chicken Stew

The weather in Atlanta has been cold and overcast for the last two days. While out running errands, I got quite chilled and a bowl of soup seemed the perfect way to get warm. As luck would have it, I had a gift card* from Panera Bread in my wallet and was a mile away from my neighborhood Panera location.

I walked in and was immediately impressed with the décor and the ambiance. I was expecting a loud Starbuck’s-like setting, but instead was greeted by a subdued environment with modern furniture and contemporary jazz playing unobtrusively in the background. I was greeted at the counter by a friendly server who cheerfully invited me to join Panera’s “MyPanera” member club.

I perused the soup selection (which varies daily) posted above the counter. I found it incredibly difficult to choose which of the home-style soups to order: classic French onion, vegetarian creamy tomato, low-fat all-natural chicken noodle, and baked potato, all made with the "good goes in" philosophy. I finally decided on the Sonoma Chicken Stew at the recommendation of my friendly server.

Within minutes my name was called and my soup appeared on a tray with a real (non-plastic) spoon. I found an inconspicuous seat and sat down to enjoy my lunch. The stew was a creamy blend of chunky chicken, peas, leeks, red potatoes and adorable (completely spherical) carrots with the modest herbal flavors of thyme and what I believe was tarragon served with two little cheese scones; kind of a deconstructed chicken and dumplings of sorts. The stew was very mild and although I personally would have preferred a bit more spice, I imagine the stew would appeal to almost every palate.

As I sat sipping my stew, I noticed the other patrons which included a Georgia Tech study group (taking advantage of the free WiFi connection,) bank tellers from a local branch, a bike messenger and several shoppers recently from the surrounding shops, all of whom were enjoying the quiet, homey atmosphere and each other’s company.

I must say I was totally impressed with my whole lunch experience. This was my first visit to this Ansley hotspot, but will definitely not be my last. Next time I must try one of those amazing-looking sandwiches and figure out how I can get the recipes for those little cheese biscuits...

*In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received a complimentary gift card for Panera Bread as members of the DailyBuzz Food Taste Makers Program in exchange for this post. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers. 

Veri Veri Happy Hanukkah Stir Fry

During each night of Hanukkah, a candle is lit to symbolize the miracle that occurred 21 centuries ago when Jewish troops attempted to purify their Temple after its occupation by their enemies. They believed their Temple had been spiritually defiled by the worship of foreign gods and sacrifices. The troops were determined to cleanse the Temple by burning ritual oil in the Temple’s menorah for eight days, but they were disappointed to find that there was only enough oil left to burn for one day. They lit the menorah anyway and to their surprise the small amount of oil lasted the full eight days needed.

This is why the use of oil in preparing Hanukkah food is important. Based on archaeological evidence, the oil of the Hanukkah miracle was olive oil. In ancient Israel, olive oil was used for lighting lamps, for religious rituals and for cooking. However, because of its low-smoking point, olive oil is rarely used to fry traditional Hanukkah specialties but vegetable oil and peanut oil are viable substitutes.

Because Hanukkah is an eight-day celebration based on the lunar cycle, the first day of Hanukkah falls on a different day each year usually between late November and December. This means that most Jewish families are celebrating on weekdays after school and work. Finding easy, kosher recipes can be challenging. This recipe for teriyaki stir-fried chicken with broccoli is not only Hanukkah-appropriate, but delicious enough for every day. And, yes, I said kosher and teriyaki in the same sentence. With the help of our friends at Soy Vay, not only is it possible, it’s good – really good.

• 
  
• 1 tbsp. peanut oil, divided
• 1½ tsp. sesame oil
• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken, cubed
• 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
• ¼-½ tsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
• 1 large bunch of broccoli, cut into florets
• 6 tbsp. chicken broth, divided
• ½ cup of Soy Vay Veri Veri Teriyaki
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch

Heat about half of the peanut oil and the sesame oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat.

Add the chicken pieces to the pan and sauté until golden brown and cooked through.  Transfer to a bowl with a slotted spoon and cover with foil to keep warm.  Add the remaining oil to the pan and then add the garlic sautéeing until fragrant, about 30 seconds.  Add the red pepper flakes and broccoli florets to the pan and stir to combine, then pour in about half of the chicken broth which will steam and boil quickly.

Allow the broccoli to cook until crisp-tender and the broth has mostly evaporated.  In a measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together the Soy Vay Veri Veri Teriyaki and cornstarch until smooth and add to the pan stirring to coat broccoli.  Add the remaining chicken broth and return the cooked chicken pieces to the pan. Cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce has thickened, about 2-3 minutes.  Remove from the heat serve over rice and garnish with sesame seeds or chopped scallions.

In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received product samples from Soy Vay in exchange for this post. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers. 

Very Merry Golden Records Christmas with Snowflakes

Christmas is the time of traditions and nostalgia. The smell of cinnamon and spruce bring memories of childhood holidays flooding back. Opening the boxes of ornaments is like visiting with friends you haven’t seen for a year. I get a tingle of excitement on cookie day when we put our favorite Christmas music on and break out handwritten cookie recipes along with the collection of holiday cookie cutters.

This year we received a copy of A Very Merry Golden Records Christmas which we put on in the background and we had a fabulous time singing along with our holiday favorites;  "Frosty The Snowman," "Rudolph The Red-Nosed Reindeer," and "Jingle Bells." The kitchen was oddly quiet as we listened to Ed Asner’s reading of "Twas The Night Before Christmas" and Wallace Shawn’s (inconceivable) narration of "A Christmas Carol."

Golden Records, originally created by Grammy Award-winning producer Arthur Shimkin, was one of the first and ultimately most successful children’s record labels in America. Today, his son Tony Shimkin, also an award-winning music producer, is carrying on his father’s legacy. This kid-friendly new holiday CD (fifth of an entire series recapturing the values, quality, and timeless innocence of Golden Records) is loaded with 20 classic songs and stories featuring beautifully remastered recordings and vocal talents of stars such as Malin Akerman, Wallace Shawn, Missi Pyle, John O'Hurley, Cheryl Hines, Dermot Mulroney, Busy Phillipps, Ed Asner  and Didi Conn. The CD which will warm even the grinchiest of hearts is available on Amazon, iTunes, and at most Walmart stores.

Oh and back to the cookies…  It is always a good idea to whip up a little snack before embarking on a full scale cookie event to keep little cookie monsters from eating all the dough. Since the CD is totally kid-oriented, we thought perhaps a kid-friendly treat was in order. These edible snowflakes are the perfect way for the kiddles to practice their scissor skills while keeping appetites at bay.

Flour tortillas

Vegetable oil or cooking spray

Confectioner’s sugar

Edible glitter (optional)

Scissors

Wrap tortillas in a wet paper towel and microwave for about 15 seconds to soften. Fold tortilla in half and half again (or accordion into thirds) and cut with child-safe scissors as you would a paper snowflake. Once the creations are complete, lay on a cookie sheet and lightly brush with vegetable oil (I sprayed the tops lightly with cooking spray.) Bake the snowflakes for about 4 minutes or until the edges are light brown and crispy. Sprinkle liberally with confectioner’s sugar or cinnamon sugar and enjoy your edible “Winter Wonderland.”


In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received a complimentary digital copy of the CD from representatives of Verse Music Group in exchange for this post and giveaway. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers.

Technique of the Week: Baking

Baking is a cooking method which uses dry heat acting by convection over a specified period of time. This is usually achieved in an oven, but can also be accomplished using hot stones, hot coals or even a car radiator. When the desired temperature is reached within the heating instrument, the food is placed inside and baked for a specific amount of time. The dry heat of baking changes the form of starches in food items and causes its outer surfaces to brown, giving it an attractive appearance and taste. The browning is caused by caramelization of sugars and the Maillard reaction.

Baking is the primary method used to prepare "baked goods" such as bread, cakes, cookies, pastries, pies and tarts. This method of cooking also works well for baking potatoes, apples, beans, meatloaf, casseroles and pasta dishes such as lasagna. While frying, sautéing, and grilling can change the fat and calorie content of the food, baking does not alter the nutritional value of food items.

 The first stories of baking suggest that a paste of wild grains and water were poured onto a flat, hot rock which resulted in a bread-like cracker similar to lavash. Later, this paste was roasted on hot embers making it more practical as it could be made anytime a fire was burned. The technique of baking expanded dramatically in Rome around 300 BC. The “pastillarium” or pastry cook became a respected profession for Romans and a pastry cook who could invent new types of tasty treats was very highly regarded. Cato wrote about vast amounts of breads of varying ingredients and patterns: sacrificial cakes, pretzels, sweet cakes, and fritters.

The art of baking became popular throughout all of Europe and was so common that Rembrandt painted a pastry chef selling pancakes in the streets of Germany with children clamoring for a taste. In London, pastry chefs sold their goods from handcarts which developed into a system of delivery to households, and in Paris, the first open-air pâtisseries were opened and baking became an established and treasured art throughout the entire world.

How to Bake a Potato:
Preheat oven to 425°F. Scrub 1 medium Idaho or russet potato to remove surface dirt from the tuber and prick it with the tines of a fork or the tip of a sharp knife. You can lay the potato directly on the oven rack or place it on a baking sheet. Cook the potato for 45-60 minutes, until the skin is crispy and poking it with a fork meets no resistance. Cut a slit in the top of the potato and gently open to allow steam to escape. Add your favorite toppings (e.g. butter, sour cream, chives, salt pepper) and enjoy.

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Candy Cane Twist

Candy canes have been a traditional part of Christmas for so long that several different origin stories have cropped up around exactly where they were created, why and by whom. One popular story claims that they were invented in Indiana and are linked to Christian religious beliefs, but antique Christmas cards show clearly that candy canes existed well before the state of Indiana did.

The most probable origin story is one that involves Christmas and children, which is charmingly fitting. According to the story, the choir master of the Cologne Cathedral asked a local candy maker to provide sweets to keep the young children participating in the living nativity scene quiet during the production. To keep the candy from being obviously out of place in the reenactment of the ancient scene, the choirmaster asked that the stick candy be bent to resemble the crooks carried by shepherds. These first candy canes were white; the red stripes did not begin appearing on Christmas cards and in advertisements until sometime after 1900.

The first known red and white striped candy cane recipe appeared in 1844, though it was for straight sticks, not the crook shape that hangs so perfectly on a Christmas tree. Making your own candy canes at home is not for the faint of heart. It requires several people and a fair amount of elbow grease, but it can be a fun way to spend a cold afternoon - and you get to eat your mistakes.

• 3 cups sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 3/4 cup light corn syrup
• 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
• Candy thermometer
• 1 teaspoon peppermint extract
• 3/4 teaspoon red food coloring
• Oil or butter, for work surface and hands
• Waxed paper
• Gloves

Stir together the sugar, water, corn syrup and cream of tartar in a small saucepan until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour half of the liquid into a second saucepan and bring both to a boil. Do not stir either pot until a candy thermometer reads a temperature of 280 degrees F. Add 1/2 teaspoon of peppermint extract to each pot and stir them well. Add red food coloring to one of the pots to make your stripes.

Turn the contents of both saucepans out onto an oiled marble or enamel cutting board. Waxed paper taped over your counter will also work. Wearing gloves to keep from burning your fingers, pull and stretch the candy the way you would when making taffy. Stretch it slowly into long ropes, fold it back on itself and stretch it again until they appear glossy. When the candy cools down some, you can remove the gloves and lightly butter your hands to keep the candy from sticking to them.

When the clear liquid has turned white, divide the candy into an equal number of portions; these will be your canes. Twist a white stick and a red one around each other, then roll on wax paper or greased surface to smooth out surface. Form the sticks into canes and set it on the oiled surface to harden. Repeat until they all candy has been used.

No time to make your own? You can sweeten any holiday gathering by ordering a nostalgic gift basket of candy online.

Technique of the Week: Scalding

Scalding is a moist-heat cooking method in which liquid or steam is used to help solids, such as sugar, flour, or chocolate, dissolve more easily into the liquid. The technique of scalding can also be used to rapidly heat the exterior of food items without cooking through. Scalding is also used in the poultry industry to make feathers easier to remove prior to processing.

The term scalding, however, is most frequently used to describe the technique of heating milk to 180°F to kill bacteria, deactivate enzymes and denature proteins. Since most milk sold today is pasteurized, which accomplishes the first two goals, milk is typically scalded to increase its temperature or to change the consistency or other cooking interactions due to the denaturing of proteins.

The most common use of scalded milk involves adding chocolate to create every child's wintertime favorite: hot cocoa. Scalded and cooled milk is used in bread and other yeast dough like that used for raised doughnuts, as pasteurization does not kill all bacteria, and with the wild yeasts that may also be present these can alter the texture and flavor. The whey protein in milk can weaken gluten which prevents dough from rising properly. Scalding the milk deactivates the protein so this doesn't happen.

Milk that has been scalded is also used in yogurt to make the proteins unfold, and to make sure that all organisms that could compete with the yogurt culture's bacteria are killed. Original recipes for Béchamel sauce called for scalded milk because it was believed that adding hot liquid, including milk, to a roux would make it less lumpy and prevent it from tasting like raw flour.

In many recipes, the real reason for scalding is to infuse it with flavor. This technique used a lot in ice cream recipes, pastry cream, and other dessert recipes because milk is an excellent carrier of flavors: vanilla beans, fresh mint, lavender buds, cinnamon, and any number of other dried and fresh ingredients are good candidates.

To Scald Milk:
In a double boiler over low hear, bring the milk to 180°F. At this temperature, bacteria are killed, enzymes in the milk are destroyed and many of the proteins are denatured. If you do not have a thermometer, the scalding point can be visually determined.

When the milk begins to form a light froth and you start to see tiny bubbles around the around the edges of the pan, it has been heated to the proper temperature.To prevent scorching, be sure to stir the milk as it heats. A thin film or "skin" may form on the surface of the milk. Not only is this completely normal, but it is another way you can tell that you have achieved the correct temperature. The skin does not need to be removed and can be stirred back into the scalded milk. You can also scald milk in a glass bowl in your microwave oven, but be sure to check it every 15-20 seconds being careful to keep milk from boiling over as it will be impossible to clean your microwave afterward.

...Or Perhaps a Financier with Cranberries

There are some movies and television shows that transcend the age barrier and have great appeal to parents while entertaining their kids at the same time. The Muppets are at the top of that list. Humorous and smart, Jim Henson’s creations have been engaging audience for over 40 years. “Muppet Treasure Island” starring Tim Curry was released in 1996 and quickly became our favorite Muppet caper especially the musical number “Professional Pirate” in which the characters enumerate the many careers they could have pursued rather than piracy. One of those options included becoming a financier.

With the tune running through my head, I mixed the batter for these decadent spongy tea cakes. The distinctive feature of these light and moist treats is beurre noisette (brown butter). Typically they also contain crushed or ground almonds giving them a characteristic nutty marzipan flavor. Some believe financiers got their name because they were quite popular in the financial district of Paris which surrounded the Paris stock exchange.

These sweet little cakes are the ideal way to use up any extra cranberries left from your Thanksgiving feast, but any fresh berry would work perfectly.  The tartness of the cranberries is a delightful contrast to the sugary richness of the financier batter.

• ¾ cup unsalted butter
• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup almond flour*
• ¾ cup sugar
• Pinch of kosher salt
• 5 large egg whites
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1 cups fresh cranberries, pierced
• Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat and simmer until browned bits begin to form on the bottom of the pan. Continue to simmer, frequently scraping up browned bits at bottom of pan for 6-8 minutes, until fragrant and dark brown but not burnt. Let cool for 5-6 minutes while you prepare the dry ingredients.

If you do not have almond flour, process 1 cup of sliced or blanched almonds and flour in a food processor until the nuts are finely ground.

Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Fold in lightly beaten egg whites and mix until smooth. Next mix in honey and then slowly fold the browned butter into the batter. It may seem that the butter won’t blend in, but keep mixing until all butter is incorporated. The batter will be very thick. At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the batter for up to 3 days until you are ready to use.

Preheat your oven to 375°F and arrange a rack in the middle of the oven. Coat a muffin pan with butter or nonstick spray. Pour a generous tablespoon of batter into each prepared muffin cup and top each with three or four cranberries which have been pierced with the tip of a knife.

Bake until the cakes for 15–16 minutes or until they are golden brown and just cooked through. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes which makes them easier to remove. Remove the cakes to a cooling rack or serving plate and dust generously with powdered sugar.  Serve the delicacies warm with some café au lait for a true French experience!

Technique of the Week: Carving (a Turkey)

Your turkey is perfectly cooked and your guests are assembled. The moment of anticipation has arrived: it's time to carve the bird. Here’s how to do it with little trepidation:

First, you will need a carving knife with a sharp, flexible blade designed to follow the contours of the bird. A two-pronged fork will help to steady the turkey. A boning knife is useful for cutting through joints and removing the legs and wings. Choose a cutting board with a perimeter well to capture the flavorful juices of the bird, if possible. Reserve these juices and any scraps for making your gravy.

Tent the roasted turkey with aluminum foil and let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes. If you start carving too early, the juices from the bird will run all over the place and your turkey will dry out. Also, letting the turkey rest and cool will reduce the chances you’ll scald yourself with delicious but molten hot turkey juice. Resting allows time for some of the juices to be absorbed back into the meat, making it moister and easier to carve.

If you trussed the turkey, snip and remove the trussing twine with a pair of kitchen scissors, and then carefully remove the string from around the bird. If you used skewers to hold the cavities closed, remove these as well.

If you stuffed the turkey, scoop the stuffing from the cavity with a long-handled spoon and place in a serving dish. If necessary, you can make an incision at the neck of the turkey to reach into the cavity from that side to remove the remainder of the stuffing.

Now it is time to start carving the bird. You'll start by removing the leg and thigh from each side of the turkey. Cut through the thin layer of skin holding the thigh to the body of the turkey until you see the hip joint. Insert your knife tip into this hip socket and cut to sever the whole leg from the body. Carve around the joint until you don’t get any resistance. Pull the leg and the thigh away from the body of the turkey all in one piece. Repeat this process on the other side.

Now to separate the drumstick from the thigh, cut between the two until you reach the joint. Gently feel with the knife until you find the seam between the drumstick and thigh at the joint, then cut through. It may help to pull the two apart until you can see the joint before cutting through it.

You can serve the drumsticks whole or slice the meat off them. To slice, secure the drumstick with the fork and slice the meat lengthwise along the bone, turning after each slice. To slice the thigh meat, place the thigh, flat side down, and slice the meat parallel to the bone. Once exposed, the bone can be easily removed and discarded.

Now it's time to remove the wings. Just like removing the thighs, you can gently pull on the wing and easily cut down to the ball joint that attaches it to the body. Probing with the point of the knife, find the joint and twist the knife while gently pulling on the wing until they separate. You may need to slice through some tendons once the joint is separated in order to pull the wing free. The wings can be served whole.

Now you're ready to slice the breast meat. Locate the breastbone at the top and center of the breast, and make a deep horizontal cut through the skin and carve downward to remove all of the breast meat from one side of the bone in one single piece.  Repeat this procedure on the other side of the turkey.

Place the breast meat on the carving surface and cut crosswise into thin uniform slices. Cutting the breast meat against the grain makes for easier cutting and better-looking pieces of meat. You can make the slices as thin or as thick as you want. (If you don’t think you’ll eat the entire breast, just cut what you’ll use, and wrap the rest of the breast in plastic wrap. It will stay nice and juicy for later.)

Arrange all the meat on your serving platter, placing dark meat on one side and white meat on the other. You can put your stuffing in the middle if desired. Garnishes of kale, parsley, cranberries, or other small seasonal fruits and vegetables add color to the platter as well. Be prepared for applause when you serve your perfectly carved turkey.

To Market To Market Curried Greens

This post was originally written for and appeared on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on November 13, 2012

The sidewalks come to life each Saturday as neighbors scuttle by with empty shopping bags headed toward the Morningside Farmer’s Market located in the parking lot adjacent to Rosebud on North Highland Avenue. The brainchild of culinary icon Guenter Seeger and former Atlanta Journal-Constitution “In-Season” columnist Cynthia Hizer, the MFM began in 1997 with a station wagon loaded with Georgia-grown vegetables and grew to become Atlanta’s most popular organic market and is at the heart of the city’s farm-to-table movement.

The most recent Saturday offerings included a variety of seasonal greens (arugula, kale, mustard, chard and collards), sweet potatoes, red onions, fresh ginger, squashes, eggs and fresh meat products from Market regulars Crystal Organic Farm, D & A Farm, Little Red Hen Farm, Riverview Farm and Woodland Gardens. Pure Bliss Organics sampled their newest granola flavor, while Magnolia Bread had a nice selection of fresh breads on hand including pumpkin sourdough, seeded country and blueberry bran muffins. Our perennial favorite, Hazelbrand Farm, featured their amazingly fragrant handmade soaps along with a few seasonal scents like “Winter Solstice” and “Frankincense & Myrrh.”

The sun was high in the sky as the 2009 Top Chef Finalist, Kevin Gillespie from Woodfire Grill, began his cooking demonstration featuring fresh mustard greens chosen from Crystal Organic Farms mere moments before. The chef was on hand earlier signing his new cookbook, "Fire In My Belly."

Chef Kevin was in high spirits as he described the recipe he was preparing. Obviously comfortable in front of an audience, he casually chatted with the crowd as he worked, explaining how to peel ginger with the bowl of a spoon and describing the nuances of various types of greens. As he added the various ingredients, wonderful aromas wafted through the patio of Rosebud (graciously lent for chef demonstrations each week) culminating in a large pot of curried mustard greens and sweet potatoes.

As Chef Kevin dished about his cookbook and his new restaurant, Gunshow, scheduled to open in Glenwood Park in February, each audience member was passed a small portion on a plate. The pungent taste of the mustard greens and the sweetness of the sweet potatoes combined to make a vegetarian dish that was colorful and boasted a wonderful combination of flavors and textures.

Chef Kevin was obviously so familiar with this dish that he needed no recipe, adding spices and elements without specific measurement. We did our best to enumerate the ingredients and the procedures followed by Chef Kevin in hopes that you might try this recipe at home:

• 2 tablespoons clarified butter (or extra virgin olive oil)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded if desired, then minced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and diced
• 1 ½ teaspoons curry powder
• 1 teaspoons mustard seeds
• ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 to 2 cups vegetable broth as needed
• 2 medium orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½”-slices (about 2 cups)
• 1 15-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, hand crushed
• 3-4 bunches kale, mustard or collard greens, stems removed, torn or roughly chopped
• 2 teaspoons light brown sugar (to taste)
• 1 tablespoon Tamarind paste (or lemon juice)
• Salt and white pepper to taste
• Chili paste to taste (optional)
• 1/3 cup fresh cilantro, chopped

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Slice sweet potatoes into ¼”- ½” slices so they will cook more quickly. Parboil the sweet potatoes for 5 to 7 minutes until slices are tender, but not mushy.
While parboiling the sweet potatoes, remove stems from greens (these can be roughly chopped and parboiled with the sweet potatoes) and tear leaves into pieces. It will seem like an enormous amount of greens, but they shrink dramatically when cooked!

Drain sweet potatoes and set aside. Slice onion, jalapeno, ginger and garlic. Heat clarified butter in a saucepan over medium heat and add onion, jalapeno and cook until onions start to turn translucent; about 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger to pan along with mustard and cumin seeds, and curry powder. Stir to coat and then add sweet potatoes, again stirring to coat. Continue cooking until vegetables begin to caramelize. If the vegetables are to dry or start sticking to the pan, add some broth or water.

Once the vegetables are tender and fragrant, add the crushed tomatoes and mix together well. Once the tomatoes have been fully incorporated and heated through, begin adding mustard greens in batches, folding the greens under the sauce. The greens will wilt and shrink as they cook. Keep adding and folding until all greens have been added to the pan.

Again, add more broth if the mixture seems to dry or sticks to pan. The amount of time the greens need to cook depends on their tenderness. Add sugar and tamarind paste (or lemon juice) stirring to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. If you like your curry to be on the spicy side, you can add chili paste to fit your taste. Serve immediately. If the greens are particularly piquant, chopped cilantro added as garnish provides a nice contrast. Chef also recommends that if you want to add a protein to the dish, chickpeas or lentils make an excellent complement to the dish.

While the Morningside Farmer's Market runs year round, hours are abbreviated January through March and chef demonstrations are held April through the end of November. The next demo will be this Saturday, November 17th with Ron Eyster from Rosebud and The Family Dog working with cabbage from Woodland Gardens Organics. The demo will begin at 9:30 a.m.

For more information about the MFM or for a calendar of upcoming events, visit their website at http://www.morningsidemarket.com.

Technique of the Week: Barding

Barding is a 19th century technique for wrapping meats in a layer of fat before cooking it. Barding maintains the moisture of the meat while it cooks and helps keep it from overcooking. Barding is only necessary when the meat does not have enough natural fat. Barding tends to be employed when roasting meats, although meats that are to be grilled can also be barded as in the case of small game birds or filet mignon. The barded fat bastes the meat while it is roasting, adding flavor to the meat, especially on lean cuts which lack sufficient fat to remain moist and succulent. The barding fat is removed approximately 15 minutes before the meat is finished cooking to allow the meat to brown.

Strips of pork fat (fatback) trimmed off pork meats and bacon are common fats for barding however, if bacon is used, some prefer to remove excess salt by first blanching the bacon in water for 5 minutes or so. The barding fat can either be laid over the meat or secured with cooking string and place in a location best suited to be absorbed by the meat.

The most popular application of this technique is employed when cooking a turkey for the Thanksgiving feast:

12-14 pound turkey
One lb. of salt pork, 1/4" strips.

If salt pork is not available, bacon works perfectly, but will impart a smoky flavor. The turkey breast and tops of legs are pricked all over with a fork. The breast and the tops of the legs are covered with the sliced salt pork. The wing tips should be tucked under the neck of the bird.

The bird is then covered with a 2-yard piece of cheesecloth folded into an 18" square and soaked in cold water. The cheesecloth is covered with a large piece of heavy duty aluminum foil. The turkey is roasted at 325F for 2 and a half to 3 hours. An instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the breast meat should read 140F before the foil, cheesecloth, and salt pork is removed.  The turkey is roasted for an additional 40-60 minutes at 425F for or until the breast meat registers a temperature of 165F. The turkey is then allowed to rest for 20-30 minutes, tented with foil, before carving.

Lemon Glaze Memorialized

We recently shared our bread pudding recipe with on our friend, Maureen’s whose blog. We are excited that she has shared our recipe for bread pudding. We hope you will pop over to grab our recipe as well as others on her site! Bread pudding is truly is a comfort food that soothes and salves the soul. We never serve our bread pudding without this warm lemon glaze which adds a sweet zing to the cinnamony deliciousness of the breaded custard.

We have mentioned in the past how fortunate we are to  live in such a wonderful community with such amazing friends and neighbors which makes it even sadder when we lose a member of our collective. Unfortunately we have lost several friends recently, but have been so impressed by the memorial services held by their families. These get-togethers have been joyous celebrations of lives well lived, but cut too short rather than the gloomy funerals and tear-filled receptions of the past. They have been gatherings of friends and family with great food, wine, camaraderie and laughter; the type of occasion in which you imagine your lost friend standing amongst you enjoying the moment.

One such event was held recently in the Garden Center of the local hardware store were the former veteran worked for many years. Everyone brought a dessert while entrée items were graciously contributed by friends at a neighborhood restaurant. Since the celebration was held outside on a crisp evening, we thought a warm dish would be appreciated by revelers. What could be a more fitting dish of comfort than bread pudding?

Lemon Glaze:

• 2 lemons, juiced
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• ¾ cup water
• 2 teaspoons vanilla

Stir together water and cornstarch. In a small saucepan, add water mixture and all other ingredients. Stirring constantly, simmer over medium-high heat until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture begins to thicken; about 1 minute. Spoon 2 tablespoons of lemon glaze over the bread pudding before serving.

Luckily, bread pudding also travels quite well. It holds its heat well and the lemon glaze can be placed in a squeeze bottle for mess-free use.  The bread pudding can be made ahead to be taken to an event where it will be cooked later. When this is the case, refrigerate (as long as overnight) after tossing toasted bread cubes and egg mixture in the baking dish, without pressing down the bread cubes. Toss ingredients again before cooking on site following the steps above.

Thanks again to Maureen for featuring our guest post. You can keep up with the Orgasmic Chef on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest. We highly recommend you do.

Comforting Bread Pudding

Our friends at Jenn Cuisine and Creative Culinary have created a blogging event to raise awareness of the relief effort for victims of Hurricane Sandy. Food bloggers from around the country have been asked to create a post sharing a comfort dish; something that we would make for someone in need to help them feel at home.  Food brings people together in good times and bad, and this week, you’ll see many of your favorite blogs (and find new favorites, too) banding together to help to those in need.

We aren’t sure what it is about bread pudding that makes it such a revered comfort food; maybe it’s the added warmth of the oven on a cool day or the soft scent of vanilla and cinnamon. Maybe it is the nostalgia; the yearning for a simpler time when dessert was a simple finish to a humble home-cooked meal; a dish made with modest, unpretentious ingredients.

• 6 cups very stale plain white bread cubes
• 5 large eggs
• 1½ cups sugar
• 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1½ teaspoons ground nutmeg
• 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
• ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
• 3 cups milk
• ½ cup raisins
• ½ cup coarsely chopped pecans, dry roasted (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut the bread into one-inch cubes and arrange on a cookie sheet. Place the bread cubes in the oven and toast for 15 minutes, tossing and rotating midway through toasting. Remove from the oven and let cool while you prepare the custard mixture.

In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs on high speed with an electric mixer until extremely frothy, about 3 minutes (or with a metal whisk for about 6 minutes).  Add the sugar, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon and butter and beat on high until well blended and the sugar is mostly dissolved.  Beat in the milk, and then stir in the raisins (and pecans if using).

Place the toasted bread cubes in a greased baking dish or loaf pans.  Pour the egg mixture over them and toss until the bread is soaked.  Press the cubes down into the liquid and let sit for about 15 minutes to allow cubes to fully absorb the liquid. Place in the preheated 350° oven and immediately lower the temperature to 300°F and bake 40 minutes.  Increase oven temperature to 425°F and bake until pudding is well browned and puffy, about 15 to 20 minutes more. Dust with cinnamon sugar and let stand for 15 minutes or so before serving.

Several organizations are dedicating their energies to helping the victims of hurricane Sandy.  While this list is by far from exhaustive, some of the larger ones include:

• RedCross is providing food, shelter, and other forms of support to hurricane victims.  You can donate directly to the Red Cross; you can also text the word “Redcross” to 90999 to make a $10 donation.
• Salvation Army is also focused on providing food, shelter, and support to victims, and takes donations to storm relief.
• FeedingAmerica is providing food, water and supplies to those who need it as part of their disaster relief program.

To appreciate all the comforting recipes posted by bloggers, you can follow #FBS4Sandy on Twitter, or visit Creative Culinary to view the linky entries.