Technique of the Week: Baking

Baking is a cooking method which uses dry heat acting by convection over a specified period of time. This is usually achieved in an oven, but can also be accomplished using hot stones, hot coals or even a car radiator. When the desired temperature is reached within the heating instrument, the food is placed inside and baked for a specific amount of time. The dry heat of baking changes the form of starches in food items and causes its outer surfaces to brown, giving it an attractive appearance and taste. The browning is caused by caramelization of sugars and the Maillard reaction.

Baking is the primary method used to prepare "baked goods" such as bread, cakes, cookies, pastries, pies and tarts. This method of cooking also works well for baking potatoes, apples, beans, meatloaf, casseroles and pasta dishes such as lasagna. While frying, sautéing, and grilling can change the fat and calorie content of the food, baking does not alter the nutritional value of food items.

 The first stories of baking suggest that a paste of wild grains and water were poured onto a flat, hot rock which resulted in a bread-like cracker similar to lavash. Later, this paste was roasted on hot embers making it more practical as it could be made anytime a fire was burned. The technique of baking expanded dramatically in Rome around 300 BC. The “pastillarium” or pastry cook became a respected profession for Romans and a pastry cook who could invent new types of tasty treats was very highly regarded. Cato wrote about vast amounts of breads of varying ingredients and patterns: sacrificial cakes, pretzels, sweet cakes, and fritters.

The art of baking became popular throughout all of Europe and was so common that Rembrandt painted a pastry chef selling pancakes in the streets of Germany with children clamoring for a taste. In London, pastry chefs sold their goods from handcarts which developed into a system of delivery to households, and in Paris, the first open-air pâtisseries were opened and baking became an established and treasured art throughout the entire world.

How to Bake a Potato:
Preheat oven to 425°F. Scrub 1 medium Idaho or russet potato to remove surface dirt from the tuber and prick it with the tines of a fork or the tip of a sharp knife. You can lay the potato directly on the oven rack or place it on a baking sheet. Cook the potato for 45-60 minutes, until the skin is crispy and poking it with a fork meets no resistance. Cut a slit in the top of the potato and gently open to allow steam to escape. Add your favorite toppings (e.g. butter, sour cream, chives, salt pepper) and enjoy.

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Candy Cane Twist

Candy canes have been a traditional part of Christmas for so long that several different origin stories have cropped up around exactly where they were created, why and by whom. One popular story claims that they were invented in Indiana and are linked to Christian religious beliefs, but antique Christmas cards show clearly that candy canes existed well before the state of Indiana did.

The most probable origin story is one that involves Christmas and children, which is charmingly fitting. According to the story, the choir master of the Cologne Cathedral asked a local candy maker to provide sweets to keep the young children participating in the living nativity scene quiet during the production. To keep the candy from being obviously out of place in the reenactment of the ancient scene, the choirmaster asked that the stick candy be bent to resemble the crooks carried by shepherds. These first candy canes were white; the red stripes did not begin appearing on Christmas cards and in advertisements until sometime after 1900.

The first known red and white striped candy cane recipe appeared in 1844, though it was for straight sticks, not the crook shape that hangs so perfectly on a Christmas tree. Making your own candy canes at home is not for the faint of heart. It requires several people and a fair amount of elbow grease, but it can be a fun way to spend a cold afternoon - and you get to eat your mistakes.

• 3 cups sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 3/4 cup light corn syrup
• 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
• Candy thermometer
• 1 teaspoon peppermint extract
• 3/4 teaspoon red food coloring
• Oil or butter, for work surface and hands
• Waxed paper
• Gloves

Stir together the sugar, water, corn syrup and cream of tartar in a small saucepan until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour half of the liquid into a second saucepan and bring both to a boil. Do not stir either pot until a candy thermometer reads a temperature of 280 degrees F. Add 1/2 teaspoon of peppermint extract to each pot and stir them well. Add red food coloring to one of the pots to make your stripes.

Turn the contents of both saucepans out onto an oiled marble or enamel cutting board. Waxed paper taped over your counter will also work. Wearing gloves to keep from burning your fingers, pull and stretch the candy the way you would when making taffy. Stretch it slowly into long ropes, fold it back on itself and stretch it again until they appear glossy. When the candy cools down some, you can remove the gloves and lightly butter your hands to keep the candy from sticking to them.

When the clear liquid has turned white, divide the candy into an equal number of portions; these will be your canes. Twist a white stick and a red one around each other, then roll on wax paper or greased surface to smooth out surface. Form the sticks into canes and set it on the oiled surface to harden. Repeat until they all candy has been used.

No time to make your own? You can sweeten any holiday gathering by ordering a nostalgic gift basket of candy online.

Technique of the Week: Scalding

Scalding is a moist-heat cooking method in which liquid or steam is used to help solids, such as sugar, flour, or chocolate, dissolve more easily into the liquid. The technique of scalding can also be used to rapidly heat the exterior of food items without cooking through. Scalding is also used in the poultry industry to make feathers easier to remove prior to processing.

The term scalding, however, is most frequently used to describe the technique of heating milk to 180°F to kill bacteria, deactivate enzymes and denature proteins. Since most milk sold today is pasteurized, which accomplishes the first two goals, milk is typically scalded to increase its temperature or to change the consistency or other cooking interactions due to the denaturing of proteins.

The most common use of scalded milk involves adding chocolate to create every child's wintertime favorite: hot cocoa. Scalded and cooled milk is used in bread and other yeast dough like that used for raised doughnuts, as pasteurization does not kill all bacteria, and with the wild yeasts that may also be present these can alter the texture and flavor. The whey protein in milk can weaken gluten which prevents dough from rising properly. Scalding the milk deactivates the protein so this doesn't happen.

Milk that has been scalded is also used in yogurt to make the proteins unfold, and to make sure that all organisms that could compete with the yogurt culture's bacteria are killed. Original recipes for Béchamel sauce called for scalded milk because it was believed that adding hot liquid, including milk, to a roux would make it less lumpy and prevent it from tasting like raw flour.

In many recipes, the real reason for scalding is to infuse it with flavor. This technique used a lot in ice cream recipes, pastry cream, and other dessert recipes because milk is an excellent carrier of flavors: vanilla beans, fresh mint, lavender buds, cinnamon, and any number of other dried and fresh ingredients are good candidates.

To Scald Milk:
In a double boiler over low hear, bring the milk to 180°F. At this temperature, bacteria are killed, enzymes in the milk are destroyed and many of the proteins are denatured. If you do not have a thermometer, the scalding point can be visually determined.

When the milk begins to form a light froth and you start to see tiny bubbles around the around the edges of the pan, it has been heated to the proper temperature.To prevent scorching, be sure to stir the milk as it heats. A thin film or "skin" may form on the surface of the milk. Not only is this completely normal, but it is another way you can tell that you have achieved the correct temperature. The skin does not need to be removed and can be stirred back into the scalded milk. You can also scald milk in a glass bowl in your microwave oven, but be sure to check it every 15-20 seconds being careful to keep milk from boiling over as it will be impossible to clean your microwave afterward.

...Or Perhaps a Financier with Cranberries

There are some movies and television shows that transcend the age barrier and have great appeal to parents while entertaining their kids at the same time. The Muppets are at the top of that list. Humorous and smart, Jim Henson’s creations have been engaging audience for over 40 years. “Muppet Treasure Island” starring Tim Curry was released in 1996 and quickly became our favorite Muppet caper especially the musical number “Professional Pirate” in which the characters enumerate the many careers they could have pursued rather than piracy. One of those options included becoming a financier.

With the tune running through my head, I mixed the batter for these decadent spongy tea cakes. The distinctive feature of these light and moist treats is beurre noisette (brown butter). Typically they also contain crushed or ground almonds giving them a characteristic nutty marzipan flavor. Some believe financiers got their name because they were quite popular in the financial district of Paris which surrounded the Paris stock exchange.

These sweet little cakes are the ideal way to use up any extra cranberries left from your Thanksgiving feast, but any fresh berry would work perfectly.  The tartness of the cranberries is a delightful contrast to the sugary richness of the financier batter.

• ¾ cup unsalted butter
• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup almond flour*
• ¾ cup sugar
• Pinch of kosher salt
• 5 large egg whites
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1 cups fresh cranberries, pierced
• Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat and simmer until browned bits begin to form on the bottom of the pan. Continue to simmer, frequently scraping up browned bits at bottom of pan for 6-8 minutes, until fragrant and dark brown but not burnt. Let cool for 5-6 minutes while you prepare the dry ingredients.

If you do not have almond flour, process 1 cup of sliced or blanched almonds and flour in a food processor until the nuts are finely ground.

Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Fold in lightly beaten egg whites and mix until smooth. Next mix in honey and then slowly fold the browned butter into the batter. It may seem that the butter won’t blend in, but keep mixing until all butter is incorporated. The batter will be very thick. At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the batter for up to 3 days until you are ready to use.

Preheat your oven to 375°F and arrange a rack in the middle of the oven. Coat a muffin pan with butter or nonstick spray. Pour a generous tablespoon of batter into each prepared muffin cup and top each with three or four cranberries which have been pierced with the tip of a knife.

Bake until the cakes for 15–16 minutes or until they are golden brown and just cooked through. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes which makes them easier to remove. Remove the cakes to a cooling rack or serving plate and dust generously with powdered sugar.  Serve the delicacies warm with some café au lait for a true French experience!

Technique of the Week: Carving (a Turkey)

Your turkey is perfectly cooked and your guests are assembled. The moment of anticipation has arrived: it's time to carve the bird. Here’s how to do it with little trepidation:

First, you will need a carving knife with a sharp, flexible blade designed to follow the contours of the bird. A two-pronged fork will help to steady the turkey. A boning knife is useful for cutting through joints and removing the legs and wings. Choose a cutting board with a perimeter well to capture the flavorful juices of the bird, if possible. Reserve these juices and any scraps for making your gravy.

Tent the roasted turkey with aluminum foil and let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes. If you start carving too early, the juices from the bird will run all over the place and your turkey will dry out. Also, letting the turkey rest and cool will reduce the chances you’ll scald yourself with delicious but molten hot turkey juice. Resting allows time for some of the juices to be absorbed back into the meat, making it moister and easier to carve.

If you trussed the turkey, snip and remove the trussing twine with a pair of kitchen scissors, and then carefully remove the string from around the bird. If you used skewers to hold the cavities closed, remove these as well.

If you stuffed the turkey, scoop the stuffing from the cavity with a long-handled spoon and place in a serving dish. If necessary, you can make an incision at the neck of the turkey to reach into the cavity from that side to remove the remainder of the stuffing.

Now it is time to start carving the bird. You'll start by removing the leg and thigh from each side of the turkey. Cut through the thin layer of skin holding the thigh to the body of the turkey until you see the hip joint. Insert your knife tip into this hip socket and cut to sever the whole leg from the body. Carve around the joint until you don’t get any resistance. Pull the leg and the thigh away from the body of the turkey all in one piece. Repeat this process on the other side.

Now to separate the drumstick from the thigh, cut between the two until you reach the joint. Gently feel with the knife until you find the seam between the drumstick and thigh at the joint, then cut through. It may help to pull the two apart until you can see the joint before cutting through it.

You can serve the drumsticks whole or slice the meat off them. To slice, secure the drumstick with the fork and slice the meat lengthwise along the bone, turning after each slice. To slice the thigh meat, place the thigh, flat side down, and slice the meat parallel to the bone. Once exposed, the bone can be easily removed and discarded.

Now it's time to remove the wings. Just like removing the thighs, you can gently pull on the wing and easily cut down to the ball joint that attaches it to the body. Probing with the point of the knife, find the joint and twist the knife while gently pulling on the wing until they separate. You may need to slice through some tendons once the joint is separated in order to pull the wing free. The wings can be served whole.

Now you're ready to slice the breast meat. Locate the breastbone at the top and center of the breast, and make a deep horizontal cut through the skin and carve downward to remove all of the breast meat from one side of the bone in one single piece.  Repeat this procedure on the other side of the turkey.

Place the breast meat on the carving surface and cut crosswise into thin uniform slices. Cutting the breast meat against the grain makes for easier cutting and better-looking pieces of meat. You can make the slices as thin or as thick as you want. (If you don’t think you’ll eat the entire breast, just cut what you’ll use, and wrap the rest of the breast in plastic wrap. It will stay nice and juicy for later.)

Arrange all the meat on your serving platter, placing dark meat on one side and white meat on the other. You can put your stuffing in the middle if desired. Garnishes of kale, parsley, cranberries, or other small seasonal fruits and vegetables add color to the platter as well. Be prepared for applause when you serve your perfectly carved turkey.

To Market To Market Curried Greens

This post was originally written for and appeared on the Virginia-Highland Civic Association website on November 13, 2012

The sidewalks come to life each Saturday as neighbors scuttle by with empty shopping bags headed toward the Morningside Farmer’s Market located in the parking lot adjacent to Rosebud on North Highland Avenue. The brainchild of culinary icon Guenter Seeger and former Atlanta Journal-Constitution “In-Season” columnist Cynthia Hizer, the MFM began in 1997 with a station wagon loaded with Georgia-grown vegetables and grew to become Atlanta’s most popular organic market and is at the heart of the city’s farm-to-table movement.

The most recent Saturday offerings included a variety of seasonal greens (arugula, kale, mustard, chard and collards), sweet potatoes, red onions, fresh ginger, squashes, eggs and fresh meat products from Market regulars Crystal Organic Farm, D & A Farm, Little Red Hen Farm, Riverview Farm and Woodland Gardens. Pure Bliss Organics sampled their newest granola flavor, while Magnolia Bread had a nice selection of fresh breads on hand including pumpkin sourdough, seeded country and blueberry bran muffins. Our perennial favorite, Hazelbrand Farm, featured their amazingly fragrant handmade soaps along with a few seasonal scents like “Winter Solstice” and “Frankincense & Myrrh.”

The sun was high in the sky as the 2009 Top Chef Finalist, Kevin Gillespie from Woodfire Grill, began his cooking demonstration featuring fresh mustard greens chosen from Crystal Organic Farms mere moments before. The chef was on hand earlier signing his new cookbook, "Fire In My Belly."

Chef Kevin was in high spirits as he described the recipe he was preparing. Obviously comfortable in front of an audience, he casually chatted with the crowd as he worked, explaining how to peel ginger with the bowl of a spoon and describing the nuances of various types of greens. As he added the various ingredients, wonderful aromas wafted through the patio of Rosebud (graciously lent for chef demonstrations each week) culminating in a large pot of curried mustard greens and sweet potatoes.

As Chef Kevin dished about his cookbook and his new restaurant, Gunshow, scheduled to open in Glenwood Park in February, each audience member was passed a small portion on a plate. The pungent taste of the mustard greens and the sweetness of the sweet potatoes combined to make a vegetarian dish that was colorful and boasted a wonderful combination of flavors and textures.

Chef Kevin was obviously so familiar with this dish that he needed no recipe, adding spices and elements without specific measurement. We did our best to enumerate the ingredients and the procedures followed by Chef Kevin in hopes that you might try this recipe at home:

• 2 tablespoons clarified butter (or extra virgin olive oil)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded if desired, then minced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and diced
• 1 ½ teaspoons curry powder
• 1 teaspoons mustard seeds
• ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 to 2 cups vegetable broth as needed
• 2 medium orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½”-slices (about 2 cups)
• 1 15-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, hand crushed
• 3-4 bunches kale, mustard or collard greens, stems removed, torn or roughly chopped
• 2 teaspoons light brown sugar (to taste)
• 1 tablespoon Tamarind paste (or lemon juice)
• Salt and white pepper to taste
• Chili paste to taste (optional)
• 1/3 cup fresh cilantro, chopped

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Slice sweet potatoes into ¼”- ½” slices so they will cook more quickly. Parboil the sweet potatoes for 5 to 7 minutes until slices are tender, but not mushy.
While parboiling the sweet potatoes, remove stems from greens (these can be roughly chopped and parboiled with the sweet potatoes) and tear leaves into pieces. It will seem like an enormous amount of greens, but they shrink dramatically when cooked!

Drain sweet potatoes and set aside. Slice onion, jalapeno, ginger and garlic. Heat clarified butter in a saucepan over medium heat and add onion, jalapeno and cook until onions start to turn translucent; about 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger to pan along with mustard and cumin seeds, and curry powder. Stir to coat and then add sweet potatoes, again stirring to coat. Continue cooking until vegetables begin to caramelize. If the vegetables are to dry or start sticking to the pan, add some broth or water.

Once the vegetables are tender and fragrant, add the crushed tomatoes and mix together well. Once the tomatoes have been fully incorporated and heated through, begin adding mustard greens in batches, folding the greens under the sauce. The greens will wilt and shrink as they cook. Keep adding and folding until all greens have been added to the pan.

Again, add more broth if the mixture seems to dry or sticks to pan. The amount of time the greens need to cook depends on their tenderness. Add sugar and tamarind paste (or lemon juice) stirring to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. If you like your curry to be on the spicy side, you can add chili paste to fit your taste. Serve immediately. If the greens are particularly piquant, chopped cilantro added as garnish provides a nice contrast. Chef also recommends that if you want to add a protein to the dish, chickpeas or lentils make an excellent complement to the dish.

While the Morningside Farmer's Market runs year round, hours are abbreviated January through March and chef demonstrations are held April through the end of November. The next demo will be this Saturday, November 17th with Ron Eyster from Rosebud and The Family Dog working with cabbage from Woodland Gardens Organics. The demo will begin at 9:30 a.m.

For more information about the MFM or for a calendar of upcoming events, visit their website at http://www.morningsidemarket.com.

Technique of the Week: Barding

Barding is a 19th century technique for wrapping meats in a layer of fat before cooking it. Barding maintains the moisture of the meat while it cooks and helps keep it from overcooking. Barding is only necessary when the meat does not have enough natural fat. Barding tends to be employed when roasting meats, although meats that are to be grilled can also be barded as in the case of small game birds or filet mignon. The barded fat bastes the meat while it is roasting, adding flavor to the meat, especially on lean cuts which lack sufficient fat to remain moist and succulent. The barding fat is removed approximately 15 minutes before the meat is finished cooking to allow the meat to brown.

Strips of pork fat (fatback) trimmed off pork meats and bacon are common fats for barding however, if bacon is used, some prefer to remove excess salt by first blanching the bacon in water for 5 minutes or so. The barding fat can either be laid over the meat or secured with cooking string and place in a location best suited to be absorbed by the meat.

The most popular application of this technique is employed when cooking a turkey for the Thanksgiving feast:

12-14 pound turkey
One lb. of salt pork, 1/4" strips.

If salt pork is not available, bacon works perfectly, but will impart a smoky flavor. The turkey breast and tops of legs are pricked all over with a fork. The breast and the tops of the legs are covered with the sliced salt pork. The wing tips should be tucked under the neck of the bird.

The bird is then covered with a 2-yard piece of cheesecloth folded into an 18" square and soaked in cold water. The cheesecloth is covered with a large piece of heavy duty aluminum foil. The turkey is roasted at 325F for 2 and a half to 3 hours. An instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the breast meat should read 140F before the foil, cheesecloth, and salt pork is removed.  The turkey is roasted for an additional 40-60 minutes at 425F for or until the breast meat registers a temperature of 165F. The turkey is then allowed to rest for 20-30 minutes, tented with foil, before carving.

Lemon Glaze Memorialized

We recently shared our bread pudding recipe with on our friend, Maureen’s whose blog. We are excited that she has shared our recipe for bread pudding. We hope you will pop over to grab our recipe as well as others on her site! Bread pudding is truly is a comfort food that soothes and salves the soul. We never serve our bread pudding without this warm lemon glaze which adds a sweet zing to the cinnamony deliciousness of the breaded custard.

We have mentioned in the past how fortunate we are to  live in such a wonderful community with such amazing friends and neighbors which makes it even sadder when we lose a member of our collective. Unfortunately we have lost several friends recently, but have been so impressed by the memorial services held by their families. These get-togethers have been joyous celebrations of lives well lived, but cut too short rather than the gloomy funerals and tear-filled receptions of the past. They have been gatherings of friends and family with great food, wine, camaraderie and laughter; the type of occasion in which you imagine your lost friend standing amongst you enjoying the moment.

One such event was held recently in the Garden Center of the local hardware store were the former veteran worked for many years. Everyone brought a dessert while entrée items were graciously contributed by friends at a neighborhood restaurant. Since the celebration was held outside on a crisp evening, we thought a warm dish would be appreciated by revelers. What could be a more fitting dish of comfort than bread pudding?

Lemon Glaze:

• 2 lemons, juiced
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• ¾ cup water
• 2 teaspoons vanilla

Stir together water and cornstarch. In a small saucepan, add water mixture and all other ingredients. Stirring constantly, simmer over medium-high heat until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture begins to thicken; about 1 minute. Spoon 2 tablespoons of lemon glaze over the bread pudding before serving.

Luckily, bread pudding also travels quite well. It holds its heat well and the lemon glaze can be placed in a squeeze bottle for mess-free use.  The bread pudding can be made ahead to be taken to an event where it will be cooked later. When this is the case, refrigerate (as long as overnight) after tossing toasted bread cubes and egg mixture in the baking dish, without pressing down the bread cubes. Toss ingredients again before cooking on site following the steps above.

Thanks again to Maureen for featuring our guest post. You can keep up with the Orgasmic Chef on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest. We highly recommend you do.

Comforting Bread Pudding

Our friends at Jenn Cuisine and Creative Culinary have created a blogging event to raise awareness of the relief effort for victims of Hurricane Sandy. Food bloggers from around the country have been asked to create a post sharing a comfort dish; something that we would make for someone in need to help them feel at home.  Food brings people together in good times and bad, and this week, you’ll see many of your favorite blogs (and find new favorites, too) banding together to help to those in need.

We aren’t sure what it is about bread pudding that makes it such a revered comfort food; maybe it’s the added warmth of the oven on a cool day or the soft scent of vanilla and cinnamon. Maybe it is the nostalgia; the yearning for a simpler time when dessert was a simple finish to a humble home-cooked meal; a dish made with modest, unpretentious ingredients.

• 6 cups very stale plain white bread cubes
• 5 large eggs
• 1½ cups sugar
• 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1½ teaspoons ground nutmeg
• 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
• ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
• 3 cups milk
• ½ cup raisins
• ½ cup coarsely chopped pecans, dry roasted (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut the bread into one-inch cubes and arrange on a cookie sheet. Place the bread cubes in the oven and toast for 15 minutes, tossing and rotating midway through toasting. Remove from the oven and let cool while you prepare the custard mixture.

In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs on high speed with an electric mixer until extremely frothy, about 3 minutes (or with a metal whisk for about 6 minutes).  Add the sugar, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon and butter and beat on high until well blended and the sugar is mostly dissolved.  Beat in the milk, and then stir in the raisins (and pecans if using).

Place the toasted bread cubes in a greased baking dish or loaf pans.  Pour the egg mixture over them and toss until the bread is soaked.  Press the cubes down into the liquid and let sit for about 15 minutes to allow cubes to fully absorb the liquid. Place in the preheated 350° oven and immediately lower the temperature to 300°F and bake 40 minutes.  Increase oven temperature to 425°F and bake until pudding is well browned and puffy, about 15 to 20 minutes more. Dust with cinnamon sugar and let stand for 15 minutes or so before serving.

Several organizations are dedicating their energies to helping the victims of hurricane Sandy.  While this list is by far from exhaustive, some of the larger ones include:

• RedCross is providing food, shelter, and other forms of support to hurricane victims.  You can donate directly to the Red Cross; you can also text the word “Redcross” to 90999 to make a $10 donation.
• Salvation Army is also focused on providing food, shelter, and support to victims, and takes donations to storm relief.
• FeedingAmerica is providing food, water and supplies to those who need it as part of their disaster relief program.

To appreciate all the comforting recipes posted by bloggers, you can follow #FBS4Sandy on Twitter, or visit Creative Culinary to view the linky entries.

Technique of the Week: Curing

Preserving food by using a combination of salt, nitrates, nitrites or sugar is a technique called curing. Some curing processes also involve smoking for flavoring or cooking. Food curing dates back to ancient times, both in the form of salt-cured meats and smoked meats.

Regular table salt is the chief ingredient used in meat curing. By removing water and adding salt to meat, a solute-rich environment where osmotic pressure draws water out of microorganisms is created. This retards the growth of harmful microorganisms. Salt also slows the oxidation process, effectively preventing the meat from turning rancid. The process requires a concentration of salt of nearly 20%. Salt also causes the soluble meat proteins to come to the surface of meat particles within processed meats like sausages. These proteins coagulate when the sausage is cooked, helping to hold the sausage together.

While the use of nitrates and nitrites (saltpeter) in food preservation is controversial, nitrates and nitrites not only help kill bacteria, but also produce a characteristic flavor and give meat a pink or red color. This increased the popularity of their use during the nineteenth century as consumers strongly preferred the red-colored meat to the grayish hue of meats cured with regular sodium chloride. When it was discovered that there was a potential for the formation of nitrosamines when the preserved food was cooked at high temperatures, the U.S. Government began carefully regulating the use of nitrites and nitrates in commercial meat processing.

With the exception of bacon, sugar added to meats for the purpose of curing contributes little to the resulting flavor, but it can help alleviate the harsh flavor of salt. In addition of sugar also boosts the growth of beneficial bacteria like Lactobacillus by feeding them.

Meat can also be preserved by exposing it to smoke from burning or smoldering plant materials, usually wood. Smoking helps seal the outer layer of the food being cured, making it more difficult for bacteria to enter. The Plains Indians used to hang meat at the top of their teepees to increase the amount of smoke making contact with the food.

Common smoking styles include hot smoking, smoke roasting (pit barbecuing) and cold smoking. If the smoke is hot enough to slow-cook the meat, it will also keep it tender. Smoke roasting and hot smoking cook the meat while cold smoking does not. If the meat is cold smoked, it should be dried quickly to limit bacterial growth during the critical period where the meat is not yet dry. This can be achieved by slicing the meat thinly and dehydrating it, as with jerky. Cold smoking is often employed in combination with salt curing.

Hot Deviled Turnovers

These little devils make a perfect nosh before and after trick or treating. They also can be made ahead and frozen and then reheated on a busy evening like Halloween (or anytime you get a devilish craving.)

Each year, for as long as we can remember, our neighbors Margarette and David have hosted an open house the Sunday before Christmas. The entire neighborhood stops by for warm apple cider and a buffet of sweet and savory bites. The one treat we always look forward to are Margarette’s little deviled ham turnovers, so after many years I finally asked for the recipe. I am so glad I did because not only are the ham tartlets wonderful, Margarette’s pastry dough is now my go-to recipe for pies and cookies!

For a novice baker, this is the most forgiving dough to work with. The cream cheese allows this pastry some elasticity, but still produces tender and flaky results.

• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
• ½ cup cream cheese, room temperature
• 1 cup flour, plus more for rolling out the dough
• Pinch of salt

Process the butter and cream cheese together in a food processor, electric mixer, or by hand to thoroughly combine.

Add the flour and salt. Process just until combined and the dough holds together in a ball. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface. Divide into 2 pieces. Flatten into disks and wrap each in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.

If the dough is chilled overnight, take it out 15 minutes before rolling out.Rub flour all over a rolling pin. Working with one dough disk at a time, place the disk on a clean, well-floured surface. Applying some pressure with the rolling pin, roll gently from the center of the dough to the top and bottom edges.

Rotate the disk and roll to the top and bottom edges again. Re-flour the work surface and rolling pin, turn the dough over, and continue to roll the dough from the center out to the edges. Turn over and roll again, rotating the disk to ensure even rolling until the dough is about 12 inches in diameter, thin but not transparent. Using a biscuit cutter (or an empty aluminum can or juice glass), cut the dough into rounds for filling.

Devilish Filling:

• ½ cup (or 4.25 oz. can) deviled ham
• ½ teaspoon mayonnaise
• ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
• ½ teaspoon hot paprika
• Pinch dry mustard

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a separate bowl, mix together deviled ham, mayonnaise, mustard and paprika and stir until well blended together. Place ½ to 1 teaspoon of filling on one side of each of the dough rounds cut above.

Moisten the edge of the pastry with a finger dipped in a little water, and then fold the empty half of the dough over the filling. Crimpthe edges together using the tines of a fork. Place on the prepared baking sheet. Refrigerate while you make the remaining turnovers, putting each one on the sheet as it is assembled.

Place a baking rack in the center of the oven. Brush each turnover with a little milk or egg white if desired. Bake on the center oven rack for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees F, and bake for about 20 more minutes, or until golden brown. For even browning, rotate the sheet from front to back halfway through baking.

Transfer the turnovers to a wire rack, and let them cool slightly. Serve while they’re still warm.

Freezing Instructions: Freeze unbaked turnovers on a baking sheet until they’re firm, then gently transfer them to a resealable freezer bag. Store them in the freezer for up to 1 month. To bake them from frozen, just add a few minutes to the baking time.

Technique of the Week: Deviling

When the term “Devil” is used as a culinary term, it refers to dishes prepared with hot seasonings, usually mustard or cayenne pepper. The word derives from the connection between the devil and the excessive heat in netherworld in which he dwells.

In a nineteenth century sketchbook, Washington Irving used the word to describe a highly seasoned dish similar to curry. Deviled dishes were very popular throughout the nineteenth and into the twentieth centuries, especially for seafood preparations and some appetizers. Deviled crab and deviled eggs are still very popular applications of this culinary idiom.

Around 1868, the William Underwood Company (which was known originally for its mustard products, began experimenting with a new product created from ground ham blended with special seasonings. The process they dubbed "deviling," for cooking and preparing the ham, was new. Soon thereafter, the "Underwood devil" became synonymous with the processed ham product, and today the Underwood devil is the oldest existing trademark still in use in the United States.

Deviled Ham:

• 1 pound smoked ham, 1" cubes
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup mustard (Creole mustard)
• 1/2 cup onion, diced
• 2 tablespoon hot sauce, to taste
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoons hot smoked paprika
• ¼ teaspoon dry mustard (optional)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender, and pulse until the desired texture is achieved and all ingredients are well mixed.

Holiday Preview Stuffed French Toast

Yesterday morning before most folks had finished their first cup of coffee, seven stalwartly foodies were seated the Cook’s Warehouse indulging in a delicious repast at the Second Annual Blogger Breakfast hosted by owner Mary Moore; Matthew Hott, Manager of the Ansley Mall location; Wendy Allen, director of The Cook’s Warehouse Cooking School; and, Jim Brams, director of public relations.

Chef Jessica Harlan of the About.com Guide to Cooking Equipment  prepared amazing pumpkin-stuffed French toast and a fruit salad with a honey lime dressing and mint in the Miele teaching kitchen.  Chef Jessica is the author of several cookbooks including her most recent title, Tortillas to the Rescue: Scrumptious Snacks, Mouth-Watering Meals and Delicious Desserts - All Made with the Amazing Tortilla.

“When you're looking for something to serve for breakfast or brunch that is even more decadent than French toast, try serving stuffed French toast. It takes a little more preparation, but it's a great way to incorporate seasonal flavors into your meal to impress guests, or to use up a handful of leftover ingredients like fresh fruit or nuts. This recipe gives you the basic concept so that you can get creative with your own ingredients or use one of the variations included below. Pair your flavored stuffed French toast with a syrup or compote in the same flavor or one that complements it, for an even more impressive way to begin the day. Slightly stale, rather than fresh, bread is far better for this recipe as it will better soak up the egg batter.

The night before preparing this recipe, I like to spread the slices of bread out on a baking sheet and leave them sitting out on the counter, so that the slices are slightly hard and dry. If you don't have time, you can also put the slices on a baking sheet and put them in an oven on low heat (200°F) for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the surface of the bread feels a little dry but it hasn't yet started turning toasty.

• 8 ounces cream cheese, softened
• 1/3 cup pumpkin puree
• ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
• 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
• 1 loaf good, stale bread, sliced
• 5 eggs
• 2 cups milk, any kind
• ½ cup pumpkin puree
• ½ teaspoon cinnamon
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• Pinch salt
• Butter, for griddle
• 1 cup maple syrup
• 1 cup chopped pecans (optional)

In a small bowl using of fork or a spatula, combine the cream cheese, the fruit or flavoring ingredients and the brown sugar, stirring and mashing until it forms a relatively smooth paste and the ingredients are well mixed. Spread the mixture generously on one piece of bread, and then press two pieces of bread together, with the filling facing in to make sandwiches. The filling layer should be thick enough so that it oozes out a little when the sandwich is squeezed. If the slices of bread are very large cut them in half.

Heat an electric griddle (Chef Jessica demonstrated one of TCW’s Hot Holiday Gifts for 2012 - the Cuisinart Griddler with Reversible Grill Plates: $99.99) or a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat, and preheat the oven to 200°F. In a large, shallow bowl, whisk the eggs. Whisk in the milk, ½ cup pumpkin puree, cinnamon, vanilla and salt.

Place two or three of the French toast "sandwiches" in the batter, turning them over with a tongs to let them evenly soak up the batter. Place a pat of butter on the griddle and use a plastic or silicone turning spatula to spread the butter to evenly coat the cooking surface. Using tongs, lift the French toast out of the batter, holding it over the bowl for a moment to let excess batter drip off.

Place the French toast on the griddle. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the underside is browned. Turn the French toast over and cook the other side another 4 to 5 minutes, until browned. Transfer the cooked French toast to a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven until you've cooked all of the pieces. For topping, mix together maple syrup and chopped pecans in a small saucepan. Heat over low heat until warm and serve in a gravy boat or syrup pitcher."

While we cleaned our plates of every morsel, store manager Matthew Hott proved why the Cook’s Warehouse is About.com’s 2012 Reader’s Choice for the Best Kitchenware Retailer as he demonstrated TCW’s “Hot Holiday Gifts for 2012.” Some highlights included:

• The New Vitamix 750 series $649.99 (used to make smoothies of berries, cherries, pineapple and chard)
• Le Creuset 5.5-quart round French oven in signature color - Truffle $265

• Calphalon Accucore 10” skillet with lid $79.99
• Zwilling (maker of Henckels knives) Spirit 8” non-stick fry pan  $39.99
• Revolution Molecular Gastronomy Kits $59.99
• VinOice Wine Chiller $29.99 Extra Chill rods $19.99 
• Chef’n pinch pour cups $29.99 
• Joseph Joseph garlic rocker $14.99
• Lekue push pop mold $9.99

After breakfast, we said our goodbyes and we were invited to wander through the TCW flagship shop before it opened to the public. As we were leaving, we were all presented with another item from the “Hot Gifts” list, a Red Party Cup, indispensable for tailgating and holiday eggnog, as a reminder of a fun morning.

Harvest Pumpkin Crème Brûlée

The French dessert known as crème brûlée is one of the most popular desserts in American culture. Widely available in restaurants around the country, this caramelized custard was once fit only for kings and queens. Of course any home cook with a set of ceramic ramekins and a hand torch can create this dessert in their own kitchen. This autumnal variation of the classic dessert is enhanced with warming spices that are freshly grated to maximize their flavor. A microplane grater makes fast work of grating whole spices.

Starting with fresh, high quality ingredients is crucial if you want perfect custard. Using the wrong ingredients or trying to rush each step will leave you with a watery, grainy dessert. You really do need to use heavy cream for this dish. While some recipes call for milk or half and half, these custards tend to be too soft and runny when cooked. Recipes that pair milk with extra egg yolks become rubbery and have a consistency more like flan. Double cream is the best choice, but it is not required. Egg yolks are the other key ingredient to create the perfect custard texture. You will need the yolks of five eggs for four servings; the recipe can be doubled or tripled. Look for fresh eggs and separate the yolks gently to avoid breaking them.* The final touch is a single, real vanilla bean. Vanilla extracts can`t provide the perfect flavor of a whole bean.

Once your ingredients are gathered, it is time to create your custard. You will need four ceramic ramekins and a large baking dish that is at least two inches deep and will sit inside the baking dish. This will become your bain marie (the French term for “water bath”), which is filled with hot water. This ensures the custard bakes slowly and evenly to maintain the proper texture and prevents the custard from curdling. The humidity from the steam that rises as the water heats helps keep the top of the custard from drying out and forming a crust.

1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 ½ teaspoon cinnamon, freshly ground
¼ teaspoon allspice, ground
½ teaspoon ginger, freshly grated
¾ teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
5 egg yolks
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons pumpkin puree
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon firmly-packed, light brown sugar
Plus 4 teaspoons granulated sugar

Begin by preheating an oven to 300°F. Bring a pot of water to a boil and keep hot in preparation for the bain marie.

Pour the cream into a small saucepan and whisk in the cinnamon, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. Scald the cream by set over medium-low heat and mixture until bubbles form around the edges of the pan and steam begins to rise from the surface, about 3 minutes. Stir the cream mixture regularly to avoid any scorching.  Take the pan off the heat and give it 15 minutes to cool. Adding the milk to the egg yolks before they are cooled may cook the yolks too fast. The vanilla bean should be removed at this point. (If you freeze it, you can use it for future batches of crème brûlée!)

In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, vanilla, salt, pumpkin puree, the 1/3 cup granulated sugar and the brown sugar until smooth and blended. Slowly pour in the cream mixture, stirring until blended. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl to remove any pumpkin fibers or larger bits of ginger and spices. Divide the mixture among four 8-oz. ramekins and place in a large baking pan. Add the boiling water to fill the pan halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil and bake until the custards are just set, about 45 minutes. The custards should wiggle some, but not slosh. The custards will continue to firm up as they cool.

Remove the ramekins from the water and transfer them to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (up to 3 days).

The crisp, brown sugar crust of a crème brûlée is what sets it apart from plain custards. Create the perfect crust by giving the ramekins an hour to warm up after refrigeration. Sprinkle about a teaspoon of sugar over the custards. Use a hand torch to carefully brown the sugar evenly. Move the flame continuously in small circles over the surface until the sugar melts and lightly browns; maintain a steady pace to avoid burnt or blackened spots. Once you achieve a crisp layer of sugar, serve immediately. The caramel crust will not last indefinitely; the moisture from the custard will eventually dissolve the sugar.

* Remember to reserve the egg whites (albumen) for other recipes such as meringue cookies, angel food cake, white cakes, or meringue for pies. Egg whites can be frozen until you are ready to use them. Raw egg whites do not suffer from freezing. When separating eggs, have an ice cube tray at the ready. Pour each egg white into a compartment of the tray. This will work for small to large eggs. Place the ice cube tray in the freezer and freeze the egg whites. When completely frozen, pop the egg whites out and transfer them to a zip-top freezer bag and return them to the freezer. Whenever you need one, just thaw as many cubes, representing one egg white each, as needed in the refrigerator and use. Egg whites will deliver full volume if they are at room temperature. So, once the egg white is completely thawed in the fridge, let it come to room temperature before whipping.

Morning Pause Cortado

There are few things better on a brisk Fall morning than the feel of a hot coffee mug cupped in your hands as the aromatic steam drifts upward to gently warm your nose. Dom and I have tried a wide range of coffee makers over the years: Krups, Cuisinart, Keurig, DeLonghi, and Breville… you get the idea. After years of trying a wide range of coffee makers we have determined that we are espresso drinkers. Opting for a cup-at-a-time machine rather than brewing a pot that goes half consumed each day.

Recently our friends at Gevalia Kaffe sent us a sample of their Espresso Roast ground coffee for us to try. An intense, full-bodied, dark roast blend made from East African, South American, and Central American beans, it makes a delicious cortado.

What is a cortado you ask? A cortado is an espresso drink with a small amount of warm milk added to reduce the acidity. The ratio of milk to coffee is between 1:1 and 1:2. The term cortado comes from the Spanish and Portuguese cortar which means “cut." It is popular in both Spain and Portugal, as well as throughout Latin America, where it is drunk in the afternoon. In Cuba, it is called a cortadito, and in Catalan it's known as a tallat.

Midway between a macchiato and a cappuccino, the cortado is simple and balanced; you taste the coffee and the milk. Its size, a mere 4 ounces, is perfect for a morning pause. Small enough to enjoy in one sitting before it gets too cold to drink.

½ cup espresso (2 shots)
¼ cup warm milk, preferably steamed

Using an espresso machine or pot, extract espresso directly into a coffee cup. Cut the espresso with warm milk and serve immediately. Add a spot more milk to reach your desired taste. The espresso can be diluted with milk to an one-to-one ratio, and still be called a cortado.


In accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255, we are disclosing that we received complimentary samples from Gevalia Kaffe in exchange for this post. A favorable review was not required; the review of the product is based solely on our personal opinion and experience and may differ from those of our readers.

Health Benefits of Coffee Smoothie

Coffee has been used for centuries to provide energy and keep workers awake on long shifts. Many people drink it just for the flavor, while others rely on it to get through the day. Recent research into the compounds found in the simple coffee bean has revealed a number of health benefits. While people with certain conditions should avoid acidic drinks with caffeine, most people will find a number of benefits by drinking a cup or two a day. Learning about these health benefits can help you feel better about a morning routine that involves a steaming cup of coffee.

Type 2 Diabetes:

Studies have shown an interesting link between coffee consumption and lowered rates of type 2 diabetes. While there is little research proving the connection, there is a strong correlation. Researchers believe that the antioxidants found in coffee provide this extra layer of protection for drinkers. This is supported by the fact that both caffeinated and decaffeinated coffee were connected to a 7% drop in diabetes development. Drinkers who indulged in up to seven cups a day saw a 35% drop in the likeliness of having diabetes, while four to five cups provides protection of up to 28%.

Stroke and Heart Attacks:
The caffeine or other compounds found in coffee may have effects on the brain and heart. Adults drinking one to two cups of coffee per day were hospitalized for irregular heartbeat about 20% less than patients who don`t drink coffee. Regular episodes of irregular heartbeats can indicate an upcoming heart attack. One study also found a 25% drop in strokes among women drinking at least two cups of coffee per day.

Parkinson`s Disease:
The link between lowered chances of Parkinson`s disease and coffee consumption has been documented for years. Regular consumption of caffeinated coffee may protect the brain, but the exact mechanism is unknown. Some recent studies also show protection against Alzheimer`s disease and dementia. Researchers followed nearly 1,500 people for more than 20 years. The patients drinking at least three cups per day were 65% less likely to develop one of these issues.

Brewing Tips:
Coffee will only benefit your health if you drink it regularly. If you avoid the drink because it tastes bitter, try brewing it the right way for a more palatable beverage. Drip coffee makers have a hard time properly extracting all of the compounds from coffee grounds if the water isn`t hot enough. Buy an inexpensive candy thermometer and check the temperature of the water as it runs through the coffee machine without coffee in it. If it isn`t between 195 and 205 degrees Fahrenheit, you can`t brew coffee that tastes good with that device.

Use bottled water or clean and chlorine-free tap water, but avoid distilled water. The water should be free of flavors or odors if you want a tasty cup of coffee. Store the grounds in the freezer. Seal your coffee in an airtight container and freeze it to preserve the volatile oils that produce complex and exciting flavors.

You don`t have to wait until tomorrow morning for a steaming cup to start the day.  Try this simple coffee smoothie for a quick afternoon pick-me-up.

Coffee Smoothie
2 ripe bananas
2 cups of freshly made coffee
2 teaspoons of sugar, honey or sugar-free sweetener
1/2 cup milk or plain yogurt
1 scoop of protein powder or whey (optional)
A handful of ice


Blend the ingredients in a blender until the banana is smooth and the ice is chopped into small pieces. Any frozen or fresh fruits can be added to create custom flavors. The protein powder or whey makes this an ideal breakfast smoothie.

Technique of the Week: Espressing

The term “espress” is derived from the Italian word for “express” since espresso is made expressly for and served immediately to the customer. As described by Italian food chemist Ernesto Illy, “The distinguishing sensory characteristics of Italian espresso include a rich body, a full fine aroma, and equilibrated bittersweet taste with an acidic note, and a pleasant lingering after-taste, exempt from unpleasant flavor defects."

Espresso is a concentrated coffee beverage of 2.5 ounces or less most often served in a demitasse cup. It is made on a specialized machine that forces hot water through finely ground coffee beans that have been compacted (tamped). It takes approximately 20-30 seconds to percolate the water through the tamped beans. Achieving a good shot of espresso is dependent on several key factors: the quality of the beans which should be dark roasted and finely ground; consistent tamping pressure; clean, preheated brewing equipment; and, good quality filtered water.

Love Thy Neighbor’s Peruvian Aji Pepper Sauce

We have lived in the same neighborhood for the last 22 years. When we bought our house, we never imagined we would live in the neighborhood for this long, but time flies when you are having fun. With such great neighbors it would be very difficult to move anyway.

We have seen many neighbors come and go and have met some delightfully interesting people like the United States Ambassador to Côte d'Ivoire (next door), the Hasidic Rebbe (two doors down), Croatian immigrants (three doors down), and the German airline executive (across the street). We all live harmoniously regardless of race, religion, ethnicity or any other life choices.

If you had told us that living just a few miles from downtown Atlanta could feel like small town living, we would have laughed out loud. However, we have come to enjoy all the comforts of small-town-living with the convenience of big-city life. The area hardware store still lets you run a tab, the pharmacist at the local CVS Pharmacy knows you by name and when a tree falls through a neighbor’s house in the middle of the night, everyone on the street shows up to help.

Weekends in the ‘hood begin Friday evening when the sidewalks are filled with tykes on bikes, chatting parents, toddlers toddling and playful puppies. On Saturdays, there are pick up football games, games of chase and hide-and-seek, and on the rare occasion when it snows, tobogganing down driveways. The day often culminates in drinks on a neighbor’s deck or a potluck cookout. The menus for these potluck suppers are as diverse and intriguing as the individuals making the dishes from Pam’s yia-yia’s orzo salad to Margarette’s hot deviled turnovers.

At the most recent gathering, we were treated to mango-marinated ribs and a potato dish with an amazing hot cheese sauce (a specialty of the host’s South American stepmother). We were thrilled to have another recipe to add to our multifarious community arsenal.

Papa a la Huancaina

• 6 potatoes, boiled
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 cups feta
• 3 tablespoons Aji Amarillo pepper paste*
• ½ cup olive oil
• ½ cup evaporated milk
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• Salt and pepper

Bring a large stock pot of water to a boil and cook potatoes until fork tender. Drain potatoes and set aside. Reserve a cup or two of the boiling water and use this to rinse the finely diced onions for a minute or two to lightly blanch.

Mash together cheese and hot peppers and place in a food processor. Add evaporated milk and lemon juice, and pulse. Pour in olive oil a little at a time like you would do when making mayonnaise. Lastly, add onion and pulse until the sauce is an even deep yellow/orange. Add more evaporated milk to reach the desired consistency and then season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cut the boiled potatoes into ½” cubes and place in a serving bowl. Cover potatoes with the Aji pepper sauce. Traditional Peruvian garnishes are hard-boiled eggs and black olives. Serve warm and watch your neighbors devour them!

* Native to Peru and fundamental to Peruvian cooking, aji amarillo is a hot chili pepper, in the range of 40,000-50,000 Scoville units (a jalapeño is 2,500 Scoville units). It's easiest to find in paste form, but also available fresh, dried, canned or ground. Chopped Aji peppers make a wonderful addition to peach, mango or tomato salsas. Aji Amarillo Pepper paste is available at many international food markets such as Atlanta's Buford Highway Farmer's Market or on Amazon.com.

Grilled Oysters with Chipotle Chermoula

If you have followed on our food adventures for any length of time it should be fairly clear that we have an eclectic interest in ingredients, cuisines (and music.) You will have also noticed that there are several ingredients that appear in blog posts more frequently than others.

There have been many variations on lamb, squash blossoms, and like any good Italian family, tomatoes. An example of another favorite in our house is oysters. Dom rarely visits the DeKalb Farmer’s Market without bringing home a bag of fresh oysters which are most often consumed raw with a drop of Tabasco or a simple Mignonette sauce which has hardly warranted numerous blog posts.

On a recent visit to the market Dom returned with a larger-than-usual quantity of the lumpy mollusks which were originally intended as an appetizer while several slabs of ribs smoked on the grill. However, they soon turned into an appetite quashing refection.

Dom placed 10 or so oysters on the top rack of the grill. Using some stunningly fresh cilantro that he just couldn't pass up at the market, and chipotle sauce originally purchased for the rib sauce, he concocted what has become our new favorite.  Thank goodness the next eight months all have the letter “R” in their names.

To Grill the Oysters:

Place the oysters on the hot grill so that they're resting on their deeply curved halves of their shells, this way their juices don't run. Make sure oysters do not overlap. Lay a wet rag towel over the oysters and cover the grill. Allow the oysters to cook until the oysters open, about 5 minutes. The oysters will pop open slightly (you can usually hear the "pop"). Once they are all open, remove them to a serving plate with tongs trying to keep the liquor inside.

When cool enough to handle, remove the top shells and loosen the oysters from the bottom shells. The subtle smoky flavor and natural saltiness of the brine in the oysters are delicious alone, but a drizzle of chermoula elevates them to the level of nirvana.

Chipotle Cilantro Chermoula

• Juice of one lime
• 2 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon Tabasco Chipotle Pepper Sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• Kosher salt to taste

Technique of the Week: Shucking

Shucking is a culinary term used to describe the removal of the outer shell or “shucks” from either corn or oysters. Interestingly the term is not used in relation to any other food items, and corn and oysters have very little else in common. While the term dates back to the late 17th century, no one knows exactly how it came to be used.

Removing the husks from corn is an easy process in which an ear of corn is grasped by its stem and the outer leaves are pulled from the top to the bottom. Once the cob with its kernels are exposed the stem and husks are broken off. Often these husks are dried for use in making traditional tamales. During the colonial era, husks were used to make dolls or other toys.

Oyster shucking, on the other hand, is a bit more difficult. You will need an oyster knife which has a short, stubby blade and a strong handle for easy gripping. Since you will need to exert a good deal of pressure to open the oyster shells, pay careful attention to the angle of the knife and the position of the mitt or towel holding the oyster. For extra protection, you should consider wearing a heavy-duty work glove on the hand holding the oyster.

Oyster shells are brittle and can splinter easily; if the shell splinters and the knife isn't angled so that is pointing down toward the cutting surface, you can lose control of the knife and cut yourself badly. Hold the oyster firmly on the cutting board to keep the oyster from sliding away.

Locate the hinge of the oyster and wrap the oyster in a towel placing the hinge side up. Working on a flat, secure cutting surface, place the tip of the knife on either side of the hinge. Using a good deal of pressure, push the knife into the hinge. Twist the knife from side to side in order to pry the shell open.

Once the knife has popped the hinge, pry the lid open wide enough to fit the top of your thumb inside. Slide the tip of the knife inside the oyster and slide it along the roof of the oyster at an angle to sever the muscle that connects the two shells, and then slice through the connective muscle trying not to pierce the oyster.

Next carefully slip the tip of the oyster knife underneath the body of the oyster into the muscle where the muscle meets the shell and slice through it. Because oyster shells are surprisingly fragile, there are often small fragments that break off during shucking. These little bits of shell are very unappetizing, so scrape them away again being careful not to pierce the oyster in the process. At this point the oyster has been dislodged from the shell completely and can be served or cooked.

The oyster should be plump and floating in liquid. This liquid (referred to as liquor) is the natural juice from the oyster and is very desirable to oyster connoisseurs. If you are planning to serve the oysters on the half shell but accidently damaged it in the shucking process, gently turn it over. The flip-side of the oyster may be better looking than the damaged top.

If you are planning to cook them, they can be kept alive until you are ready to use them by wrapping them in a cool, moist towel and storing them in a refrigerator. Shucked oysters can be stored this way for up to two days.